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What Is an AP Watch? A Beginner’s Guide to Audemars Piguet

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If you’ve ever browsed luxury watches or seen one on a celebrity, you may have come across the name Audemars Piguet , often shortened to AP . But what exactly is an AP watch? Who makes it? Why are they so expensive? And most importantly — is one right for you?

In this beginner-friendly guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about Audemars Piguet: from its storied history and iconic collections like the Royal Oak, to pricing, craftsmanship, and where to buy.

1. What Does “AP Watch” Mean?

“AP” stands for Audemars Piguet , a prestigious Swiss luxury watch brand founded in 1875. Known for its bold designs, technical excellence, and exclusivity, AP has become a symbol of elite status in the world of horology.

An “AP watch” can refer to any timepiece made by the brand, but most commonly points to their Royal Oak collection , which revolutionized the luxury sports watch category when it launched in 1972.

2. A Brief History of Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet was founded by two young watchmakers — Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet — in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. The region is known for producing some of the finest mechanical watches in the world.

From the start, AP focused on crafting high-end pocket watches and complications (like perpetual calendars and minute repeaters). Over time, the brand evolved into a powerhouse of innovation and design.

Key Milestones:

  • 1892 : First minute-repeating wristwatch
  • 1972 : Launch of the Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta
  • 1993 : Introduction of the Royal Oak Offshore
  • Today : Still family-owned, with global prestige and limited production

3. Why Is Audemars Piguet So Popular?

Audemars Piguet has built a reputation that goes far beyond traditional watchmaking circles. Here’s why AP watches are so highly sought after:

  • Iconic Design : Especially with the Royal Oak, AP created a look that blends sporty and luxurious.
  • Celebrity Appeal : Stars like LeBron James, Serena Williams, and Drake are frequently seen wearing APs.
  • Exclusivity : With only around 40,000–50,000 pieces produced per year , AP watches are rare and hard to get.
  • Craftsmanship : Each watch is hand-assembled and finished to the highest standards.
  • Investment Value : Many AP models appreciate over time, making them popular among collectors.
Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet Watches

4. The Royal Oak: AP’s Most Famous Collection

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is arguably the most famous model line in the brand’s history — and for good reason.

Designed by legendary watchmaker Gérald Genta in just one night, the Royal Oak broke the mold in 1972 by being the first luxury sports watch made of stainless steel . It featured a now-iconic octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and a unique “tapisserie” dial pattern.

Key Features:

  • Available in stainless steel, gold, platinum, and ceramic
  • Sizes range from 37mm to 42mm+
  • Movement types include automatic, manual, chronograph, and tourbillon
  • Some editions feature open-case backs to show off the intricate mechanics

5. Other Notable AP Collections

While the Royal Oak is the star, Audemars Piguet offers several other lines that appeal to different tastes:

✅ Royal Oak Offshore

  • Larger, bolder, and more rugged
  • Favored by motorsport enthusiasts and celebrities
  • Often features chronographs and rubber straps

✅ Code 11.59

  • Modern, avant-garde design
  • Sleeker than the Royal Oak, with a round case
  • Focus on traditional haute horlogerie

✅ Millenary

  • Unique oval shape
  • Open-worked dials and artistic finishing
  • Great for those who prefer unconventional luxury

✅ Jules Audemars

  • Classic, elegant dress watches
  • Often with moonphase, date, and small seconds complications

6. Why Are AP Watches So Expensive?

You might be wondering: why do AP watches cost tens — sometimes hundreds — of thousands of dollars? Here are the main reasons:

🕹️ Handcrafted Excellence

Each AP movement is assembled and decorated by hand. Finishes like chamfering, polishing, and Côtes de Genève are done manually.

💎 Premium Materials

AP uses top-tier materials including 18k gold, platinum, titanium, and forged carbon.

🔧 In-House Movements

AP develops its own movements instead of using third-party parts — a major factor in quality and price.

📉 Limited Production

With fewer than 50,000 watches made each year, supply is low and demand is high.

🏆 Brand Prestige

Owning an AP is not just about telling time — it’s about owning a piece of luxury history.

7. How Much Do AP Watches Cost?

Prices vary widely depending on the collection, materials, and complications. Here’s a general breakdown:

Model Starting Price (Retail)
Royal Oak Self-Winding $22,000+
Royal Oak Chronograph $35,000+
Royal Oak Offshore $30,000+
Code 11.59 $25,000+
Millenary $30,000+
Limited Editions / Tourbillons Hundreds of thousands – millions

Keep in mind that many AP models sell out quickly at retail, and buyers often end up paying well above MSRP on the secondary market.

Audemars Piguet Watch

Audemars Piguet Watch

8. Are AP Watches a Good Investment?

Yes — but with caveats.

Pros:

  • Strong resale value, especially for limited editions
  • Demand remains high due to exclusivity
  • Certain models (like the Royal Oak 11.1111ST) have appreciated significantly

Cons:

  • Waitlists are long for new releases
  • High entry price point
  • Risk of counterfeits in the pre-owned market

If you’re buying as an investment, focus on:

  • Limited editions
  • Stainless steel Royal Oaks
  • Historically significant models

Also, always keep the original box, papers, and service records — they add value.

9. Where to Buy AP Watches (and What to Avoid)

There are a few main ways to purchase an AP watch — each with pros and cons.

🛍️ Authorized Dealers

  • Pros: Full factory warranty, genuine product, service support
  • Cons: Long wait times (sometimes years), no discounts

🧾 Certified Pre-Owned Retailers

  • Pros: Verified authenticity, competitive prices, shorter wait
  • Cons: Warranty may be limited or expired

🌐 Online Marketplaces

  • Pros: Wide selection, potential for deals
  • Cons: Risk of fakes, scams, or poor condition watches

⚠️ Gray Market

  • Pros: Lower prices, immediate availability
  • Cons: No official warranty, risk of non-serviceable parts

Always do your research before purchasing. If possible, go through trusted sellers like Watchfinder & Co. , Bob’s Watches , or Crown & Caliber .

10. Conclusion: Is an AP Watch Right for You?

An AP watch is more than just a timepiece — it’s a statement. Whether you’re drawn to the bold style of the Royal Oak, the elegance of the Jules Audemars, or the modern flair of the Code 11.59, there’s something uniquely special about owning an Audemars Piguet.

But make no mistake — these are serious investments. They’re best suited for:

  • Serious collectors
  • Luxury enthusiasts
  • Those who value craftsmanship and heritage

If you’re ready to take the plunge, be patient, do your homework, and enjoy the journey of owning one of the world’s most respected watch brands.