The Cartier Ballon Bleu watch is a modern icon, beloved by Cartier fans and celebrities like Kate Middelton and Johnny Depp. We explore the brief history of this instant fan-favorite watch and share five pointers on how to spot a fake Ballon Bleu de Cartier.

The Short History of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Watch
The elegant aesthetic of the Cartier Ballon Bleu watch belies how new the model is for the 170-year-old Cartier brand. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier was just introduced in 2007 and, with is polished sensibility and widespread popularity, is poised to be a classic on par with the Cartier Tank Watch.

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch has a distinctive and distinguishing rounded shape. The bold Roman numerals and mother-of-pearl dial build upon the watch’s sophisticated appeal. And the Ballon Bleu de Cartier’s signature feature is the sapphire cabochon crown which is housed by the integrated crown.

How to Spot a Fake Cartier Ballon Bleu Watch
For all its wonderful simplicity, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch is incredibly difficult for counterfeiters to convincingly replicate. To protect yourself from a forged Cartier Ballon bleu watch, look out for these key hallmarks of Cartier’s high-quality craftsmanship:

1. Screws in the Bracelet

The metal links of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch bracelet will always be held together by screws—never pins. Forged watches use cheap pins and tubes to secure the bracelet. You should be able to see the screw’s slot drive, the straight groove on the screw’s flat head used to tighten the screw. If the bracelet screw does not have a drive, the Cartier Ballon Bleu watch in question is a fake.

2. Screws in the Case Back

Like the bracelet, the Cartier Ballon Bleu case back is held in place with small screws. However, forgers use inexpensive snap case backs that can be pressed closed without screws.

3. An Engraved Cartier Signature
The watch case back should also be engraved with Cartier’s name, the serial number, case material and number. The engraving should be clean and crisp.

4. An Ornate Dial

One of the most notable design features of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch is its beautifully detailed dial. Cartier artisans painstakingly engrave every non-mother-of-pearl Ballon Bleu dial with an elaborate and ornamental circular pattern known as guilloche. Cartier Ballon Bleu forgers may try to replicate this intricate guilloche motif, but, because it requires an expert hand to perfectly execute the design, the lines will not be clean, parallel or exact. More often than not, faux Ballon Bleu de Cartier watches won’t even include the guilloche print and the dial will be left blank.

5. The Swiss Made Stamp

Just below the 6 o’clock marker, the Cartier Ballon Bleu watch is stamped with a minuscule “Swiss Made.” This incredibly small detail is frequently overlooked by counterfeiters and omitted from imposter Ballon Bleu de Cartier watches.

Oversized watches are in for both men and women.

Throughout the 1970s, bigger and bigger watch cases became the norm. However, in the 1990s and early 2000s, the bigger-is-better trend really took off.

Today, it’s not uncommon to see a men’s watch between 44-48mm wide—a significant difference from early 1990s when 37-39mm was the norm. And, for women, oversized watches have become the look of fashionable circles. Even more so, women have largely forgone the “Ladies Watches” designed by big name brands in favor of sporting the traditionally “men’s” styles themselves.

So how big is too big when it comes to an oversized watch? If you want to go big, the general rule of thumb is to select a watch with lugs that do not extend beyond the width of your wrist. This ensures that your oversized watch will read: BIG, fit comfortably, and still be proportionate to your frame. 

(And, if you’re uncertain: lugs stick out from the top and bottom of the watch case where the strap or bracelet attaches. Lugs are not reflected in the watch case diameter so be sure to double-check their measurements too.)

Finally, your oversized watch should not slide up or down your wrist more than an inch when you drop your arms to the side. An oversized watch that also slips up and down your arm looks sloppy. To learn more about how tight your watch should fit, read our blog post on the topic here.

What’s the difference between a vintage and an antique watch?
Antique watches are at least 100 years-old. Vintage watches are at least 20 years-old. Any watch under 20 years is likely to be classified as simply “old”—neither modern nor quite yet vintage.

How do I know how old my antique watch is?
To determine the age of your watch, you will need to open your watch and find the serial number on the watch’s movement. This crucial figure will indicate the manufacture date. (Unfortunately, you cannot rely on the number stamped outside on the watch case which is largely used only for identification purposes.) You can cross reference the movement’s serial number with the manufacturer’s database (most of which are listed online) to determine the year your watch was produced.

If your watch does not have a serial number, it becomes harder to trace its history—but not impossible! Antique and vintage watches require a highly trained eye to determine its age and authenticity. Therefore, we recommend reaching out to an auction house like Christie’s or Sotheby’s. Their team of experts can generally tell you via e-mail and photos if your watch is of exceptional value and worth bringing in for a more thorough review.

Which is worth more: a vintage or antique watch?
This is going to be an annoying response but: it depends. There is no hard-and-fast rule to say the older a watch, the more valuable it is.

Some vintage watches fetch jaw-dropping sums at the auction houses because they’re highly sought after by collectors who covet their prestige, history or unique qualities. To wit, the 1925 Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch fetched a whopping $24 million USD at a Sotheby’s auction in 2014.

However, other vintage timepieces are not considered “exceptional” by market standards and are not worth nearly as much. Ultimately, your watch is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.

Is my watch worth less if it’s damaged?
The condition of a vintage or antique watch can actually increase if it’s gently damaged. Watch collectors oftentimes prefer a watch that has a little wear-and-tear, believing it to have more character and imbued with history. Clear signs of age like a black-turned-brown Tropical Dial or a Crazed Dial with cracked lacquer can be a boon to your watch’s resale value; for more on these desirable signs of damage, read our post “How to Start a Vintage Watch Collection” here.

However, your watch may be worth significantly less if it was damaged and then repaired. Collectors largely shy away from a vintage or antique watch that was restored and far prefer a watch that has all its original parts, even if it’s imperfect.

While watch collecting in general is enjoying its heyday, vintage watch collecting is on the rise. Some collectors are fascinated by a watch’s rich history and the greater tradition of watch-making.

Another huge motivator for collecting vintage watches is simply economics. Modern watches typically depreciate significantly and quickly. However, most vintage watches will actually appreciate in cost; therefore, some collectors consider vintage watches to be a savvier investment.

Ready to build your own vintage watch collection? Here’s how to get started:

1. Do not confuse vintage with antique.
Until the mid-1970s, most watches were resold privately at estate sales or through local jewelers. However, in 1974, an Italian watchmaker and restorer, Osvaldo Patrizzi, founded his own auction house exclusively for watches and clocks. Soon after, large auction houses like Sotheby’s and Christies followed suit and began hosting auctions dedicated to watches alone.

Therefore, it’s surprising to some new collectors that vintage watches are classified as any watch over 20 years old—which, given the centuries-old history of watch-making, is not that long ago.

2. Set your sights on a specific model.
Because a lot of research is required for vintage watch collecting, we suggest focusing on a single model to delve deeply into. You’ll want to read up on the watch’s significance in the watch industry and its historical context—especially for watches that were originally built as time-keeping tools for the army, divers, and outdoorsmen.

Furthermore, within a particular model’s history, there may have been updates or inconspicuous changes to the watch’s design or production that will significantly sway its resale value. In order to be a shrewd collector, you need to be acutely aware of these different periods.

Not sure where to start? Some popular models for vintage watch collectors include the following from the mid-1960s and 70s:

Breitling Navitimer World Chronograph
Introduced in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer World Chronograph was designed for pilots and crews to make in-flight calculations like airspeed and rate of descent.

Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank watch dates back to 1918 and was a pivotal moment in watch-making history. The Tank watch is the first watch to be designed with a holistic, style-first approach.

Omega Speedmaster
The Omega Speedmaster is best known as the “First Watch on the Moon” when astronaut Buzz Aldrin wore his Omega Speedmaster during the Apollo 11 mission.

Rolex Submariner
The watch worn by James Bond and a veritable icon, the Rolex Submariner is a quintessential part of any watch collection, particularly a vintage model.

3. Research the original design extensively.
In addition to knowing the watch model’s history, you should know the original design—inside and out—incredibly well. And that’s not just for bragging rights; it’s to protect your investment.

A thorough knowledge of the watch’s original parts will help you recognize any parts that may have been repaired or replaced. Any replacement parts (particularly if they’re modern or after-market pieces) will significantly decrease a watch’s value. Credible sellers will always disclose this information in their listing. However, unscrupulous sellers may not be as direct and prey on less-informed shoppers. Safeguard yourself from being duped by recognizing which bezel, hands, logo, and metal-type were specifically used on your watch’s model for that specific era.

4. Inspect the vintage watch’s condition.
The overall condition of your vintage watch can greatly sway its cost. Most collectors prefer a watch with a little wear-and-tear that signals a watch has real history and hasn’t been laying in a safety deposit box its entire life. Moreover, a damaged but all-original watch is preferred over one that was restored (see above). In fact, some of these signs of deterioration actually sky-rocket the value of the watch:

Damaged Bakelite Bezel
Early watches were issued with a plastic Bakelite bezel. However, because Bakelite is brittle and prone to cracking, wearers would frequently replace fractured bezels with metal versions. Therefore, Bakelite bezels are rare and appreciated by collectors, even if the bezel is cracked or faded.

Tropical Dial
When a formerly mirrored black dial is exposed to the sun, it fades into a dull brown. (Similarly aged gilt dials turn into a warm caramel color). This “tropical dial” is hotly coveted by collectors as it adds to the watch’s backstory. The key, however, is to find a tropical dial that is evenly faded across the dial.

Crazed Dial
When a dial’s defective lacquer cracks, it creates a spider web effect (known as a “crazed dial”) across the dial. However, collectors debate whether or not this adds any value to the actual watch while some simply prefer the overall look.

Damaged Crystal
A scratched or replaced watch crystal (the glass that goes over the dial) does not impact the cost of a watch. However, if you see a significantly marked up crystal, be sure to confirm the dial underneath is not damaged.

4. Join the conversation.
Unfortunately, it’s very common to shell out big bucks for what turns out to be a “frankenwatch,” a vintage watch that is cobbled together with different era components and therefore worth significantly less than the original. Therefore, you want to vet out any shady sellers.

To that end, join web forums and connect with other watch collectors. They may have recommendations for reliable sellers, notes on what to look for with your particular desired watch and cautionary tales from past experiences of their own. And, once you are ready to buy, you can tap into your network of watch experts to weigh in before you purchase.

One of the most common questions for any new watch wearer is: how tight should my watch fit?

The golden rule is that your watch should not slide more than an inch up or down your wrist when you move your arm. This is especially important for bracelet-style and oversized watches which will look exaggeratedly large if the watch does not fit correctly around your wrist.

And for wearers who frequently don long sleeves—for example, if your office’s dress code requires a suit—you want your watch to fit slightly more snugly. It is unflattering for your cuff or suit jacket to get caught atop the watch; you want your sleeve fall and actually cover the majority of your watch when you stand with your arms at your sides. That said, if your watch is leaving an imprint or an angry red mark, it’s too tight.

Alternatively, watches that are too loose will slide and wind around your wrist. This increases the chances that you will scratch the watch crystal or damage the watch.

Finally, when it comes to wearing your watch on the left or right, it is most common to wear the watch on the wrist of your non-dominate hand. So, Righties usually sport their watch on their left wrist and Lefties on their right.

Engraving your watch is a cool way to personalize your watch and attach a piece of your personal history to your timepiece. Although it is ultimately a personal decision to engrave or not, we highlighted the most important points of consideration to help you decide if engraving your watch is the right move for you.

Confirm your watch can be engraved.
Certain watch case backs are not ideal for engraving.

Some already have a lot of brand stamps on the back including important serial or registration numbers. These crucial brand signatures will limit the amount of space you have to engrave. Moreover, if your watch’s case back is already crowded with text, you may accidentally obfuscate some important figures.

Watches with a clear case back or skeleton watches are specially designed to showcase the mechanical watchmaking inside. Engraving these types of watches may disrupt the aesthetic of the piece: the lettering may be seen through the watch or it may obscure the complicated movements behind the inscription.

Finally, watches with a sapphire or glass case back will likely need to be engraved with a laser. Although some watch collectors have no qualms with a machine engraving, others prefer the antique look of a hand engraving.

In any of these instances, an alternative is to engrave the side of the case instead of the back. One limitation, however, is that some cases may be too thin to engrave.

Choose the engraving method.
There are two primary engraving camps: hand engraving and machine engraving.

A traditional hand engraving will give the lettering a uniquely stylized and antique-looking flair. The deep cuts of hand engraving chip away at the caseback’s metal which makes it difficult, if not impossible, to wholly remove—a pro or a con depending on your point of view. 

Machine engraving uses lasers or a diamond tip to mechanically etch in your letters. Machine engraving ensures near-perfect consistent letter spacing. It also gives you more options when it comes to fonts and character count. And the comparatively shallow lines of a machine engraving can usually be polished away and may even wear away in as little as a year.

Pick something meaningful to engrave.
Having your watch engraved is a commitment (albeit, in some instances a non-binding commitment, more on that later), so carefully select what you want to inscribe. We generally recommend sticking with a timeless inscription that still carries sentimental weight; classic engraving options are monograms, initials and important dates. Coats of arms, family crests, poems, quotes or religious text are also time-honored suggestions.

Understand an engraving will impact the resale value of your watch.
If you plan to someday sell your watch, reconsider engraving it. Most collectors do not want to purchase an engraved watch and this ultimately brings down the resale value of your timepiece. Others will argue that they enjoy the sentimentality and history imbued in the piece but the majority of collectors will say an un-engraved watch is preferable to an engraved one.

Having an engraving removed can be costly and you risk damaging your watch; buffing away an inscription means the metal of the case back is left slightly thinner.

A smart alternative—a way to have your cake and eat it, too—is to find a replacement case back to engrave instead and preserve the pristine original. Or you can engrave a bracelet link which can be removed and is precious than the valuable case back.

If you’re ready to trade up your pre-owned watch with TrueFacet’s TrueTrade Program, the first step is taking a good photo of your timepiece.

Our team of appraisers rely on clear photos to quickly give you an accurate estimate for your watch. Submitting a sharp photograph means less back-and-forth so you can start shopping with your TrueFacet credit even faster.

To help you get the perfect shot of your timepiece, here are our best photography tips—no fancy photo equipment needed, just a smartphone or your handy point-and-shoot camera.

1. Find a clean surface.
The ideal setting for your watch photo is on a clean, white surface. Barring that, a cleared desk, counter, or table is a fine alternative. You want to remove your watch from your wrist and lay it flat on your working space.  

2. Shoot using daylight.
You want to use natural light for your photo. A flash can reflect off the watch’s metallic surfaces and obscures the details of your watch. Therefore, we recommend turning off your flash and relying on sunlight to illuminate your photo. However, you do not want to stand in direct sunlight which will similarly create a harsh glare. 

3. Get in close.
Your watch should effectively fill the entire frame of the photo. Photographing it from too far away means the important details of your watch can be lost. So, move closer to your watch when photographing it.

But one word of caution: double-check your camera’s focus. If you put your camera too close, your lens may not be able to automatically re-focus. To correct this, start with your lens close to your watch, then slowly pull your camera back until it can focus. Snap your photograph from that distance. 

4. Photograph the back of the watch case.
Turn your watch over, lay it flat again, and photograph the back of the watchcase. If your watch has a registration number engraved on the back, be sure that is legible in your photo. 

5. Include your boxes and papers in a fourth photo.
If you have the boxes and papers for your watch, include that in a separate photograph with the model and style number on the paperwork legible.

If you have any further questions about TrueFacet’s TrueTrade program, contact a concierge associate here.

From sizing to care, we answer all your burning questions about David Yurman and the brand’s signature cable bracelets.

When was the David Yurman Cable Bracelet Introduced?

Designer David Yurman debuted the helix-motif cuff in 1983 and it quickly became the brand’s signature piece.

What inspired the Cable Bracelet’s Design?

The cables of the Brooklyn Bridge and the Celtic twisted metal rope torq jewelry of the Iron Age are frequently cited as the Cable cuff’s inspiration. But Yurman himself cites nature and not man-made materials as his primary source of inspiration. In an interview with Travel + Leisure, Yurman explains, “It’s actually a helix… The pattern is in our DNA, in nautilus shells, and you can see it swirling in the galaxies, too.” 

What is the most expensive David Yurman Cable Bracelet?

David Yurman recently released an updated Cable collection called the Renaissance Bracelet. This weighty cable cuff is made of 18-karat yellow gold, encrusted with pavé diamonds (weighing a total of 2.32 carats). The Renaissance Bracelet retails for $18,500 USD.

Are there different sizes for the David Yurman Cable Bracelet?

Yes, most of the David Yurman Cable cuffs are available in small (for wrist measurements of 5 1/8 – 5 ½”), medium (5 5/8” – 6”) and large (6 1/8 – 6 ½”).

What is David Yurman’s Cable Classic Bracelet made of?

Gold and sterling silver. Recently David Yurman has added diamonds and other gemstones like amethyst, citrine, peridot and blue topaz to cap the ends of their premium Cable Classic Bracelets. The brand also released a special-edition of its Cable Bracelet made of aluminum. 

How do I store my David Yurman Cable Bracelet?
Every night, clean your David Yurman Cable cuff with a soft cotton cloth. This will gently wipe away any residual dust, sweat, perfumes, or other oils (think hand lotion or soap) that may have collected on your bracelet throughout the day.

Store your David Yurman Cable cuff in a fabric-lined jewelry box or a fabric jewelry box. We also recommend dropping an anti-tarnish strip into your jewelry box to absorb the air pollutants that cause unsightly tarnishing. Alternatively, you can slip a silica pack (like the ones that come inside shoeboxes) to similarly absorb moisture and curtail the oxidation process.

How do I clean my David Yurman Cable Bracelet?
You can usually quickly restore luster to your sterling silver David Yurman bracelet by wiping it down with a silver polishing cloth. For deeper cleans, skip the silver polish or silver cleaning solutions which may actually strip away the antique oxidation look David Yurman intentionally applies to its jewelry designs. Instead, wash your silver Cable Bracelet with warm water and mild soap, gently wiping it with a cotton or flannel cloth. Do not use a fabric with any texture or nubs like a bath towel.

If you have a gold Cable Cuff, dilute dish detergent with warm water in a small dish to soak your bracelet for 3-5 minutes. With a clean cotton cloth, gently wipe down your bracelet and hold it under warm running water to remove any soap residue.

Always be sure to thoroughly dry your David Yurman bracelet completely by patting it dry with a soft, lint-free cloth before wearing it again.

For any David Yurman Cable Bracelets with gemstones, we suggest bringing it to a jeweler for cleaning. Many at-home cleaners or DIY remedies contain chemicals like bleach, ammonia or baking soda will damage your piece. Also do not use an ultrasonic or steamer on your David Yurman cuff.