Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

How to Buy the Right Size Watch for Small Wrists

Large or oversized faces are the “in” look for watches. While some wearers can masterfully pull off a hefty 45mm Panerai Radiomir, the same watch can look disproportionate—even comically oversized—on wearers with small wrists.

But, why should you miss out on this oversized trend? Wearers with thin wrists are can sport a large watch too. Just follow these three cardinal rules to find the perfectly-sized-oversized watch for your narrow wrist.

RULE #1: Watch lugs should never extend beyond the width of your wrist.
To ensure your oversized watch looks intentionally large, find a style where the watch lugs do not go over the end of your wrist.

Watch lugs are the part of the watch that connect the case to the bracelet. However, watch lugs are not necessarily included in the measurement of the case diameter. So, double-check the length of the lugs as they are the real fit game-changer, even above the case diameter.

RULE #2: Watch bracelets should not slide more than an inch up or down your wrist.
Regardless of your wrist size, if your watch falls down over your hand or slides up your entire arm, it looks sloppy. And this faux-pas is particularly pronounced if you have a slim wrist.

Your watch should fit comfortably around your wrist so that it does not slide more than an inch in either direction. Bring your watch bracelet to a jeweler and have it properly fit to your wrist.

RULE #3: Do not overlook case thickness.
Watch case thickness typically ranges from 6-10mm, with some creeping upwards of 17mm. In turn, the thickness of the watch case affects your perception of a watch’s overall size; thick watches feel bigger. Therefore, slim wrists should opt for a thinner watch case to maintain a good proportion between your wrist and oversized watch.

To learn more about watch size and fit, read our post on the topic here.

 

 

Featured photo by Style Shiver.

How to Clean White Gold Jewelry

White gold jewelry requires its own special care. To give your jewelry that hot-white, mirror shine and eliminate any yellow tinge, white gold is frequently plated in rhodium, a precious metal in the platinum family. So, when you clean any white gold jewelry, you need to be sensitive to the soft gold and this ultra-thin layer of rhodium.

We share our basic everyday care tips and steps to safely clean your white gold jewelry.

Everyday Care Tips
1. Use a gentle polishing cloth to wipe down your white gold jewelry.
Every night, wipe down your jewelry with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove any dirt, film or residue that may accumulate throughout the day. Never use an abrasive cloth like a paper towel to clean or dry your white gold jewelry. Not only is gold itself a very soft metal (and therefore fairly easily scratched) but you can wear down the rhodium plating with a too-harsh cleaning cloth.

2. Remove jewelry before jumping in the pool.
Chlorine is particularly damaging to white gold so never wear your jewelry in the pool. For added caution, slip off your jewelry before taking a shower; tap water often includes trace amounts of chlorine

3. Bring scratched white gold jewelry to the jewelers.
If your piece of jewelry is already scratched or nicked, do not continue wearing it. Any scratches mean your jewelry is vulnerable to further damage, so nip it in the bud and bring it in to the professionals. A jeweler can either polish it to smooth out any abrasions or re-plate the rhodium if needed. And on that note…

4. Have your jewelry regularly re-plated.
Rhodium will gradually fade away with every day wear. The result is dull or faintly yellow white gold jewelry. To restore your white gold jewelry to its original shine, have your jewelry professionally re-plated as needed or roughly every six months. Most jewelers will offer this service for roughly $25-$35 per item.

How to Clean White Gold Jewelry
If your white gold jewelry includes a diamond (like an engagement ring or wedding band), you can quickly and easily clean your item at home. However, certain gemstones like pearls or onyx stones are incredibly delicate and should not be cleaned by a professional. Do not follow the steps below if your white gold jewelry includes a non-diamond gemstone.

1. In a small bowl, dilute a mild dish soap in warm water. Do not use any soap that contains chlorine.

2. Soak your ring in the soapy solution for 20-30 minutes.

3. With your fingers or a soft cloth, gently rub the ring to remove any remaining dirt.

4. Rinse the ring to wash away any residual soap.

5. Dry your white gold jewelry completely with a soft cloth.

3 Myths About Yellow and White Gold

Despite the widespread usage of yellow and white gold in jewelry and wedding bands, there are a handful of myths surrounding these similar-yet-different precious metals. We correct these commonly held misconceptions about yellow versus white gold to explain their elemental characteristics and what accounts for their range in cost.

MYTH #1: Gold is yellow when its mined. Therefore, white gold is not really gold.
It’s true gold is usually a reddish yellow when its mined. But that doesn’t mean white gold isn’t genuine gold.

Regardless of its color, gold by itself is a soft metal, meaning it is easily scratched or dented. Therefore, to make it resilient enough for jewelry, which is prone to being bumped throughout the day, gold is combined with another alloying metal.

Herein lies the fundamental difference between yellow and white gold: yellow gold is combined with copper and zinc. White gold, meanwhile, is combined with nickel, manganese or palladium. These different alloy metals give gold its different yellow or white hue.

MYTH # 2: Yellow gold is more expensive than white gold.
Regardless of which metal is added to gold, its purity is measured and valued the same way.
Gold’s purity is measured in karats and is calculated by how many parts out of a possible 24 parts are pure gold. For example, 18-karat yellow gold is made of 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts alloying metal. The higher the karat number, the greater the amount of pure gold and, therefore, the more valuable the item. This holds true for yellow or white gold, so neither gold is purer or more expensive if the karats are the same.

What can account for any price difference between white and yellow gold is usually credited to the rhodium plating typical of white gold. When gold is combined with nickel or palladium, it still has a pale yellow hue. To eliminate that discoloration, white gold jewelry is typically plated in rhodium. Rhodium itself is an expensive precious metal that can increase the final cost of your white gold jewelry.

MYTH #3: A lot of people are allergic to gold.
Although it’s entirely possible to have a gold allergy, most people are actually allergic to nickel, the alloying metal frequently used in white gold.

Commonly referred to as “wedding ring rash,” a red patch may develop around your finger—even after years of wearing your wedding band. Naturally you’d suspect the gold itself as the culprit—it’s the visible metal, after all—but the nickel in the gold may be to blame. Ask your allergist or dermatologist to conduct a patch test to confirm if you’re allergic or sensitive to gold or nickel.

How to Clean Tarnished Gold and Silver Jewelry

Restore your gold and silver jewelry to its full luster and glory and wipe away unsightly tarnish with these quick-and-easy how-to’s. But, a few words of caution before you begin any at-home cleaning methods:

Double-check the metal content of your jewelry before you begin. For example, silver-plated items require different care from all-silver jewelry. If you’re uncertain about the metal-type, treat it as a piece of plated jewelry for the gentlest cleaning option.

If your silver- or gold-plating has already chipped (exposing the metal below), you should bring it to a jeweler to be re-plated. Cleaning it could further damage your item.

And note: none of these cleaning methods should be used on jewelry with precious or semi-precious stones; gemstones each require different care and some cleaning agents can severely damage soft stones like pearls and emeralds. Bring your item to a jeweler to learn how to safely clean your fine jewelry or leave it in their expert hands to polish.

How to Deep Clean Silver-Plated Jewelry
Silver-plated jewelry has a thin layer of silver over a non-precious metal base. Because the silver-plating is so thin, you need a very gentle cleaning method:

1. In a large bowl, fully dilute a few drops of mild dish soap in warm water. (Undiluted dish detergent will leave dark spots on the silver.)
2. Submerge your item in the soap water and gently rub it with your fingertips to release the tarnish.
3. Rinse the piece under warm water to remove any soap reside.
4. Dry the jewelry with a soft lint-free cloth.
5. Gently buff the jewelry’s surface with a polishing cloth to bring out its luster and shine.

How to Clean Silver Jewelry
1. Line the bottom of a small bowl with aluminum foil, shiny-side up.
2. Dissolve 1 tablespoon baking soda and 1 tablespoon salt in boiling water, roughly one cup or just enough to cover your piece of jewelry.
3. Submerge your item in the solution, ensuring the jewelry is touching the aluminum foil.
4. Let sit for 2-10 minutes, depending on the level of tarnish.
5. Remove (be careful: the water is still very hot!) and rinse your jewelry under warm water and pat dry with a lint-free cloth.

How to Clean Gold and Gold-Plated Jewelry
Gold is a very soft metal so it is easily scratched—even by a soft-bristle toothbrush. Therefore, we recommend exercising extreme care when cleaning or polishing gold jewelry.

1. Dilute two drops of mild dish soap in warm water.
2. Dip your gold jewelry into the mixture.
3. Remove your piece from the soapy water and rinse it under clean warm water.
4. Gently rub the item with a polishing cloth to restore its shine.


How to Care for Mixed Metal Jewelry

Historically polite society has snubbed the notion of wearing yellow gold and silver jewelry at the same time.

But, in recent years, mixed metal jewelry has exploded in popularity and combining different metals is a far cry from the fashion faux-pas of yesteryears. Instead, trendsetters and the fashion crowd regularly sport a variety of metal types and colors together.

And designers have followed suit. David Yurman’s Cable Classics Bracelets are made with sterling silver and 14-karat yellow gold. And for their Tiffany 1837 collection, Tiffany & Co. combined sterling silver and their exclusive rose-colored Rubedo metal, an alloy of gold, copper and silver, for their pendants and bracelets.

But each metal included in these designs requires a different type of care. To ensure that your mixed metal jewelry retains its luster and is safely polished, follow these crucial cleaning and storage tips for mixed metal jewelry.

David Yurman Cable Classics Bracelet with Sterling Silver & 14K Yellow Gold

Preventative Care for Mixed Metal Jewelry
Regularly wipe down your jewelry with a polishing cloth to keep build up from forming. Do not use facial tissues or paper towels to clean your piece as the paper fibers can scratch the surface of your jewelry.

Storing your jewelry in a fabric-lined jewelry box will also keep your pieces that include silver from tarnishing or collecting dust. We also recommend placing anti-tarnish strips inside your jewelry box. These strips absorb sulfides and other air pollutants to prevent (or at least slow down) tarnish from forming. However, these strips will not help remove pre-existing tarnish from your jewelry.

Cleaning Mixed Metal Jewelry
When it comes to cleaning mixed metal jewelry, you want to err on the side of caution and use the least abrasive cleanser. Dip your item in warm water with mild dish soap and gently polish the item with a soft cloth.

If you have a vintage item or a mixed metal piece that is in need of a deep clean, it’s best to bring it to a professional for cleaning. They can use stronger cleaning agents that will restore the item’s luster without compromising its integrity.

Tiffany & Co. 1837 Pendant Necklace with Sterling Silver & Rubedo

Cleaning Mixed Metal Jewelry with Precious Stones
If your mixed metal jewelry also includes precious or semi-precious stones, proceed with extreme caution. Precious and semi-precious stones each require very different care; while it may be safe to scrub a diamond, pearls and opals are incredibly soft and should never be immersed in water or cleaned with even a soft bristle toothbrush.

Therefore, when it comes to cleaning mixed metal jewelry with any kind of stones, you should only clean it with a soft cloth to lightly wipe away any dusty films. You should never use any cleaning products or an ultrasonic cleaner without consulting a professional jeweler first.

For more information on how to care for metal jewelry, read our post on the topic here.

Tips for Selling Gold Jewelry

Gold jewelry is an investment that you can wear, enjoy and resell when you’re ready to upgrade your collection. Here are our key expert tips on how to sell your gold jewelry.

1. Know the karat of your gold jewelry.
Pure gold is a very soft metal so, to make it more durable for jewelry-making, gold is combined with an alloy metal like silver, nickel, or copper. This ratio of pure gold to alloy metal is the gold’s karat.

Gold jewelry is stamped with an identify number (or hallmark) that connotes the gold purity.

Your gold jewelry’s karat is important as it can greatly influence the resale value of your item—the purer (or the higher the karat) the gold, the more expensive it is. Therefore, know the karat weight of your gold jewelry so you are not undervaluing it.

2. Determine if your gold jewelry is worth more as a finished piece or scrap gold.
Designer, antique or vintage gold jewelry can resale for far more than the gold used to make the piece is worth alone. However, particularly worn pieces or items with a low market value, may earn you more if you scrap it for gold. To know if you should resell your gold jewelry as-is or bring it to a gold buyer, have your item evaluated by a trusted jeweler.

3. Set your asking price based upon the market value—not the retail value.
A major misconception about reselling gold jewelry is the expectation that you will earn back an amount within the ballpark of what you first paid for it. However, the reality is that you most likely will only receive a percentage of your gold jewelry’s original retail value. It is quite rare for gold jewelry to resell at a premium.

It’s important to recognize that your jewelry may be appraised for an amount close to the purchasing cost, but that does not mean you can resell it for that same amount. Most appraisals are used for insurance purposes and factor in the full retail value needed to replace the item.

But when it comes to the gold jewelry’s resale value, that figure is based upon a handful of variables including its condition, rarity, brand, age and the market demand. Essentially your gold jewelry is worth whatever someone will pay for it.

4. Clean your gold jewelry before listing it.
One easy and smart way to make your gold jewelry more attractive to buyers is to restore its lustrous shine. To clean all-gold jewelry, simply dip your jewelry in a bowl of lukewarm water and dish soap and gently clean it with soft bristle toothbrush. For a deeper clean or to clean gold jewelry that also includes precious stones, we suggest bringing it to a jeweler to ensure its safely polished.

Interested in selling your gold jewelry? Curious how much your gold jewelry is worth? Contact our team of appraisers here to learn more about how to resell your collection. 

Cartier’s Most Popular and Historic Watches

Beginning with its trend-setting Santos Watch in 1904, Cartier has been a longtime pioneer in the watch-making space. And, in recent history, Cartier has challenged its designers and master watch-makers to develop ground-breaking movements. In turn, Cartier has positioned itself as a formidable competitor in the watch industry and has proven its success in developing elegantly designed and impressively built wristwatches.

We explore Cartier’s most popular watches, their long history and the different updates of these key models.

Cartier Santos Watch
In 1904, Brazilian pilot and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont was a cause célèbre in Paris. Santos-Dumont bent the ear of his friend Louis Cartier and explained how difficult it was to read time off a pocket watch while flying his airplane. Over the next two years, Cartier designed the Santos watch: a revolutionary and masculine square-shaped wristwatch. The Cartier Santos watch was a sensation and sparked a new demand for men’s wristwatches that had previously been worn exclusively by women.

Cartier Santos Watch, 1904

The Cartier Santos Watch was updated in 1978. The Santos was reissued in a less expensive steel case and bracelet with a golden bezel and screws. This modernized design carried a surprisingly sporty air and was emblematic of Cartier’s new approach to affordable luxury.

Cartier Santos, 1978

In step with the times and changing tastes that preferred a larger case size, Cartier debuted the Santos 100 in 2004 in celebration of the Santos’ 100-year anniversary. This hefty watch measures a whopping 42 x 51mm—an impressive jump up from the 1904 Santos watch that feels dainty in comparison at a mere 35mm.

Cartier Santos 100

The Santos Triple 100 was released in 2008 and is credited as the first-ever rotating-dial mechanism. This mesmerizing Cartier watch includes three different displays: the classic Cartier Roman numerals; one covered in diamonds and sapphires, and a detailed portrait of a tiger. By turning the crown, the display rotates to reveal the next dial. It’s a stunning and mind-bending iteration of the Cartier Santos wristwatch.

Cartier Santos Triple 100

Cartier Tonneau Watch
In the early 20th century, women’s taste in wristwatches began to change and the traditional round cases were no longer en vogue. Louis Cartier, in turn, introduced the Cartier Tonneau watch in 1906. The barrel-shaped watch beautifully curved to the contours of the wrist for a comfortable and elegant fit. The Cartier Tonneau became a popular accessory for the fashionable women of high society.

Cartier Tonneau, 1906

In 1913, Cartier debuted the truncated version of the Cartier Tonneau: the Cartier Tortue. French for tortoise, the Tortue was shorter and housed larger round movements than its predecessor. The Tortue Monopoussoir was re-released in 2002 and included a column-wheel caliber that was only 3.8mm thick.

Cartier Tortue, 1913

The Cartier Tortue underwent a significant redesign and, in 2003, Cartier released the Roadster Chronograph. Like its precursor, the Cartier Roadster Chronograph features the squat barrel shape but is definitively a modernized and sporty version of the Tortue. The dial includes a tachymeter scale with elapsed-seconds hands to quickly calculate average speeds.

Cartier Roadster Chronograph, 2003

Cartier Tank Watch
The Cartier Tank watch was inspired by the military tanks used by English troops during World War I. Louis Cartier debuted the Cartier Tank watch in 1917. The Cartier Tank watch is considered the first watch to be designed with a holistic, style-first approach. Previously, wristwatch straps were just a means to keeping the watch on; the face and dial were the focus of the design. However, the Cartier Tank watch beautifully integrates the distinct caterpillar tracks of the army tank into the bracelet design that perfectly complements the minimalist face and dial.

Cartier Tank Watch, 1906

The Cartier Tank watch was immediately a best-seller for the French maison. Since the Cartier Tank watch’s debut, there have been over 30 variations on the original design. In 1921, Cartier debuted the Tank Cintrée: an elongated version of the original square-shaped Tank watch. Soon after, the Cartier Tank Chinoise was introduced in 1922. The prominent lugs of the Cartier Tank Chinoise were inspired by the architectural lines of Chinese temples.

Cartier Tank Cintrée (left), Cartier Tank Chinoise

In 1926, Cartier filed for a patent for a clever design that allowed the watch case to rotate a full 180 degrees so the display would rest against the wrist. This technology was incorporated into the Tank Basculante and marketed to active wearers who wanted to safeguard the delicate crystal.

Cartier Tank Basculante

The inconspicuous Tank à Guichets was introduced in 1928. The Cartier Tank à Guichets’s display includes only two small apertures to read the hour and minute markers which rotate underneath the tiny windows. For all its elegance, the Tank à Guichets was a durable timepiece, designed for athletic wearers and built to endure the inevitable bumps and knocks.

Cartier Tank à Guichets, 1928

Fresh interpretations of the Cartier Tank have been released in recent history: the elongated casually formal Tank Américaine (1989); the Tank Francaise (1996) which included a modernized chain-link bracelet; the bulkier and sportier Tank Anglaise (2012); and the impressively sized Tank MC (2013).

From left: Cartier Tank Américaine, 1989; Cartier Tank Francaise, 1996; Cariter Tank Anglaise, 2012; Cartier Tank MC, 2013

Cartier Cloche Watch
The Cartier Cloche watch (named for its church bell-like shape) was released in 1922 but available only by special request. The strap of this uniquely shaped wristwatch was closed with a single lug at the 12 o’clock marker. A second iteration of the Cartier Cloche featured a dial that was turned 90 degrees counter-clockwise so the 12 o’clock marker was at 9 o’clock. This clever designed allowed the wearer to remove the watch, set it flat on a bedside table, like a small clock, and be able to read the time upright.

Cartier Cloche Watch, 1922

Cartier Pasha Watch
The Pasha watch was released in 1943, just one year after Louis Cartier’s death, and was an innovative water-resistant watch. The Cartier Pasha watch’s round case shape improved its water resistance and included a grille that echoed World War I era military watches. The crown was housed in a protective locking mechanism which was attached to the case by a small chain to prevent loss.

Cartier Pasha Watch, 1987

Cartier Crash Watch
The inspiration behind the twisted shape of the 1960s-era Cartier Crash watch remains a mystery. Some believe it’s based upon a watch that has been smashed and wrecked in a car accident (hence its name). Others credit Spanish surrealist painter Salvador Dali for the watch’s “melting” shape that mirrors the prominent motif in his The Persistence of Memory painting from 1931. A mere 15 Cartier Crash watches was released in the 1960s. It enjoyed a comparatively larger release of 400 gold watches in 1991.

Cartier Crash Watch, 1967

Les Must de Cartier
Following Cartier’s split into three international houses based out of Paris, London and New York, Cartier’s watch division was waning. The public interest had largely become critical of luxury goods, so, to reinvigorate interest in the Cartier brand, the Les Must de Cartier watch was released in 1973. The collection included 12 watch models, available only in solid gold cases and nearly exclusively in Cartier boutiques. It was an immediate hit in both Paris and New York City.

Cartier Les Must Watch

Ballon Bleu de Cartier
The Ballon Bleu de Cartier was introduced in 2007 and was immediately a favorite among Cartier fans who reveled in its inimitable shape. The bold Roman numerals and mother-of-pearl dial are beautifully in step with classic Cartier watches. However, the signature sapphire cabochon crown, housed by the integrated crown, give the Ballon Bleu de Cartier its distinguishing rounded shape. Although it’s one of the newcomers to the Cartier watch lineup, the Cartier Ballon Bleu ranks as one of the brand’s all-time best-sellers and is on par to grow into a classic akin to the Cartier Tank and Santos watches.

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

Cartier Rotonde Central Chronograph
In 2009, Cartier released the Rotonde Central Chronograph. This was a ground-breaking watch for Cartier and includes the maison’s most advanced movement. This innovative watch layers the hour and minute hands below a disk for reading elapsed chronograph minutes and the seconds hand. The brilliantly simple design—with only the tips of the hour and minutes hand visible beneath the chronograph disk—means the chronograph is never obscured.

Cartier Rotonde Central Chronograph

The Rotonde Astrotourbillon was debuted in 2010 to great fanfare for its mind-bending tourbillon. While traditional tourbillon movements rotate around its own axis, the tourbillon of the Cartier Rotonde Astrotourbillon beautifully travels around the entire movement once every minute. The result is a mesmerizing watch that became one of the brand’s marquee pieces that year.

Cartier Rotonde Astrotourbillon

And in 2011, Cartier introduced the Rotonde Astrorégulateur. Described as a “gravity-defying” watch, the Rotonde Astrorégulateur de Cartier is outfitted with a 9800 MC calibre which counteracts the effects gravity has on a traditional watch’s accuracy. Cartier holds four patents for the Rotonde Astrorégulateur’s mechanism and this incredibly complex movement requires five times as many components as a traditional tourbillon.

Cartier Rotonde Astrorégulateur

Calibre de Cartier
To appeal to male shoppers, Cartier developed the Calibre de Cartier in 2010. The weighty Calibre de Cartier Chronograph is the very first (in the brand’s long history) in-house self-winding chronograph and established Cartier as a formidable luxury watch-maker.

Calibre de Cartier

Drive de Cartier
In 2016, the Drive de Cartier was released. Again, marketed primarily to men, the hefty Cartier Drive watch was inspired by a vintage automobile. It boasts an elegant rounded shape and includes Cartier’s signature design flourishes: the guilloche pattern on the dial, blue sword-shaped hands, and a sapphire cabochon crown.

Drive de Cartier

The Origin of the Cartier Panther Motif

The Cartier Panthère motif has been an integral part of the brand’s identity since the late 1940s. However, Cartier’s ties to its most elegant feline dates back to the early 20th century and was largely popularized and perfected by Jean Toussaint, an incredibly talented Cartier designer and visionary.

We trace the history of the Cartier Panthère motif from its Art Déco origins, through its rise into the world’s most fashionable circles.

The Panther’s Rise in Popularity
Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, panther fur was a rare and valuable prize for hunters who coveted its patterned pelt. Its popularity quickly rose in the early 20th century. Interior designer Elise de Wolfe was commissioned to design and decorate New York’s newly built Colony Club in 1907. The Colony Club was the place for well-heeled society women to meet. De Wolfe’s décor received enthusiastic reviews that not only bolstered her career but the use of exotic animal skins and furs, like panther fur, in interior design.

Cartier Panther Watch, 1914

The trend spread into other fashion circles, including jewelry and accessories. For its own part, Cartier wove the panther’s distinct print into a bracelet wristwatch design in 1914. The watch was Cartier’s first use of the panther motif which was made with diamonds and onyx set in platinum.

The Influence of Jean Toussaint
Soon after, in 1917 Louis Cartier gave his lover, Jean Toussaint, an onyx vanity case that featured the maison’s first full-body panther, made with diamonds and onyx. This gift carried sentimental weight for the couple; Louis Cartier nicknamed Toussaint “La Panthère” after her elegance and striking determination—and finely decorated apartment that was bedecked with leopard skin.

Jean Toussaint’s Cartier Vanity Case

Toussaint became an integral part of the Cartier creative team, first as a handbag and accessory designer and ultimately as the artistic director of high jewelry in 1933. Her designs often incorporated the panther motif which she fine-tuned with the help of Peter Lemarchand, a designer who joined Cartier in 1927. The two collaborated to add shape and a dynamic sense of movement to the panther.

Unlike the flat Art Deco-era panther, Toussaint’s panther was made of beautifully sculpted yellow gold and black enamel to give the animal more dimension. And, in 1935, under Toussaint’s leadership, Cartier debuted a yellow gold and black enamel panther ring.

The Duchess of Windsor Panther Brooch
But the real breakthrough for Cartier’s panther motif came in 1948 when the maison debuted its first-ever three-dimensional panther.

Cartier Panther Brooch, Commissioned by the Duke of Windsor, 1948

Commissioned by the Duke of Windsor as a gift for his wife, Cartier presented a brooch with a gold panther, flecked with black enamel with dazzling emerald eyes perched atop an impressive 116.74-carat cabochon emerald. The following year, the Duchess of Windsor commissioned another panther-themed brooch. This one was outfitted with a three-dimensional panther with pavé diamond fur and sapphire spots, posed above an enormous 152.35-carat cabochon sapphire.

Cartier Panther Brooch, Commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor, 1949

These sensational pieces reignited interest in the panther motif. Other socialites and members of high-society including Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan, and Barbara Hutton commissioned Cartier for their own impressive panther jewels.

The Cartier Panther Today
In 2014, Cartier celebrated the 100-year anniversary of its beloved panthère motif. The branded hosted a grand exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris that included 56 of its iconic Panthère de Cartier bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings. The signature Cartier panther has become a symbol of luxury and sophistication and highlights the fine craftsmanship and creative spirit of the Cartier brand.

Panthère de Cartier Ring, 2014