At the top of the haute horology pyramid sits three of the best luxury watch companies in the world: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and A. Lange & Söhne. Although these masters have given us countless unforgettable timepieces over their long histories, each manufacturer has a flagship collection that enjoys the most respect and greatest popularity. Here we take a look at the Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, and the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to see what makes these signature models so exceptional.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Originally founded by Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe in the mid-1800s, Patek Philippe was purchased by brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern in 1932. That same year, the Calatrava made its debut.

The simplicity of the Calatrava was markedly different from preceding Patek Philippe designs which were famously complicated timepieces with split-seconds chronographs, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars. The simplicity of the time-only Calatrava was a stark contrast.

Based on the Bauhaus design principle, in which form follows function, the first Calatrava, Ref. 96, featured a slim round 31mm case, clean dial, two center hands for the hour and minutes, and the small seconds subdial. The understated elegance of the Calatrava dress watch was immediately well received by the luxury watch clientele and remains Patek Philippe’s signature model today.

The Calatrava is available in a wide range of models available for both men and women. One of the most popular modern Calatrava models is the Ref. 5196, first introduced at Baselworld 2004. Clearly inspired by the inaugural Calatrava, the manually-wound Ref. 5196 sports a refined 37mm case, center hour and minute hands, and a seconds subdial. The Calatrava ref. 5196 is available in white, pink, and yellow gold and platinum.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Vacheron Constantin has the distinction of being one of the oldest Swiss watch brands still in existence today and has cultivated a culture of watchmaking excellence. Founded in 1755 by master watchmaker Jean-Marc Vacheron, the company became known as Vacheron Constantin in 1819 when Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron—grandson of the founder—joined forces with businessman François Constantin.

In 2004, the brand presented a new model named the Patrimony Contemporaine, which is now simply known as the Patrimony. These sophisticated dress watches are inspired by the manufacturer’s archive of timepieces from the 1950s which were prized for their ultra-thin, formal and sophisticated style. The Patrimony watches of today channel this look but are updated to reflect contemporary tastes such as larger case sizes and the option of an automatic movement.

Moreover the Patrimony timepieces are powered by manufacture movements built in-house at Vacheron Constantin. Another hallmark of the Patrimony model— and of Vacheron Constantin in general—is the presence of the Geneva Seal, which indicates compliance with strict codes set out by the Canton of Geneva regarding watch movement manufacturing and decoration.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony line runs the gamut from time-only pieces to more complex watches with perpetual calendars, moon phase indicators, and retrograde day-date functions. There’s also a selection of Patrimony watches for ladies ranging from understated gold models with clean dials to more lavish diamond-encrusted versions.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

First founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in the then-destitute city of Glashütte in Saxony Germany, A. Lange & Söhne laid the groundwork for what would later become the central region of German horology. The company enjoyed great success until the mid-1900s when World War II and communist rule brought political instability and A. Lange & Söhne as an independent establishment was eventually shut down.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, Walter Lange—the grandson of the founder—wasted no time in reviving his family’s company in Glashütte. In 1990, A. Lange & Söhne opened its doors for business again and four short years later, presented four new timepiece prototypes: Lange 1, Arkade, Saxonia, and Lange Tourbillon.

The Lange 1 timepiece in particular caused a sensation when it was first unveiled to the international press in 1994, admired for the distinct look of the asymmetrical dial.

Another key design trait of the dial is the outsized date on the top right corner which the new generation of A Lange & Söhne first patented in 1992.The outsized date is also a tribute to the Five-Minute Clock of the Dresden Opera House—a clock that Ferdinand Adolph Lange worked on as an apprentice. Other fundamental characteristics of the Lange 1 are the off-centered hour and minute subdial, the small seconds subdial, and the power reserve indicator. Also proudly showcased on the face of the Lange 1 is the company’s home city and region, Glashütte i/SA. There are numerous versions of the Lange 1, some packed with complications, but the distinct and instantly recognizable dial layout is always present.

Photo Credit: ablogtowatch.com

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève (SIHH) is a markedly exciting time in the world of horology.

Now in its 27th year, the convention is the wildly anticipated annual international show of fine watches where the world’s premier watchmakers showcase their latest designs, innovative mechanics and most impressive wares. And this year proves even more exceptional. SIHH will showcase a record-setting 30 exhibitors, including their expanded Carré des Horlogers, a cadre of fourteen innovative and new-wave watchmakers which debuted last year.

The industry is already abuzz with what this landmark SIHH has in store for attendees, so we explore some of the anticipated haute horology trends that will be on lavish display this season.\

Globetrotter-Friendly Watches

For anyone who leads the jet-set life and hops from one timezone to the next, these watches are meant for you. These timepieces are designed to help immediately you know the time in Dubai, even while in Los Angeles, which a casual glance at your wrist.

Girard-Perregaux WW.TC
Short for World Wide Time Control, Girard-Perregaux’s WW.TC is a new addition to its 1966 collection. This elegant watch with “leaf-type” hands allows the wearer to effortlessly tell the time of 24 world cities listed around the dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time
The latest model in the Geophysic Collection, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time is an exceptional timepiece: it’s the first ever (ever) worldtimer to feature a flying tourbillion. And this awe-inspiring watch is a real sight to behold: an impressive 43.5mm in diameter, a 22K pink gold winding rotor, 42 jewels and a Gyrolab balance that took eight years to develop.

Astrological and Cosmic Inspiration

This year, watchmakers have infused their designs with celestial references and fascinatingly complex details. The results are finely-crafted and remarkable watches that are truly out of this world.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Set Galaxy
For their Tonda 1950 Set Galaxy Watch, independent watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier looked to the literal skies above: the brilliant night sky in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland where the brand is headquartered. This special-edition timepiece can in fact be read at night thanks to a luminescent coating on the hands.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Watch
The world’s oldest watchmaker expands their beloved Patrimony Collection with the introduction of The Patrimony Moon Phase Retograde Date watch. One particularly noteworthy detail is the moon phase display just above the 6 o’clock which is so accurate that it only needs to be corrected once every 122 years.

Ulysse Nardin The Classico Rooster
While this timepiece seems like a departure from the more overt stellar inspiration, the Ulysse Nardin pays homage to the Chinese Lunar New Year, the year of the cock. For its debut at SIHH, Ulysse Nardin pulls out all the stops to create this rooster detail, implementing an enameling technique called champlevé in which artisans chisel the dial in the shape of a rooster and fill the cells with colorful enamel.

Refashioning the Classics

Watchmakers are tapping into their archives and reimagining their most recognized timepieces. The results are fresh collection additions that are a thoughtful blend of timeless design elements and industry-leading technology.

IWC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. IW392101
IWC artfully leverage past designs and technical marvels with their Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. IW392101. Aesthetically the watch pays tribute to the original Da Vinci collection. But menchanically-speaking, it’s a revolutionary watch for the brand; this is IWC’s first timepiece to combine the hour and minute counters and moon phase in a single subdial.

Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
For this year’s SIHH, Montblanc turned an eye to their timeless 1858 Collection and, for the first time in the brand’s history, designed a version with a bronze case. Horologists will particularly appreciate the large chronograph caliber made of plates and bridges in red gold-plated German silver. The watch is, simply put, a stunning link to the past, brought beautifully into 2017.

Late last year, Patek Philippe celebrated the 40th anniversary of their highly popular model the Nautilus. Introduced in 1976, the Nautilus was the first luxury sports watch created by the Swiss manufacturer, who previously, was known for their elegant high-end dress watches. The Nautilus’ debut signaled the willingness of the company to keep up with the growing trend of a more casual lifestyle.

The Inaugural Patek Philippe Nautilus: Ref. 3700/1A

The Nautilus was designed by renowned designer Gérald Genta. According to Genta, he sketched the Nautilus in five minutes in a restaurant where Patek Philippe executives were also coincidentally dining at a nearby table. Whether this is fact or embellished folklore, what is certain is that Gérald Genta’s blueprint has now become one of the brand’s greatest designs.

Genta’s design was a bold departure from other watches in the marketplace. Specifically the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A sported a large and rugged stainless steel case presented on a stainless steel bracelet when most luxury watches at the time featured a slim gold case with a leather strap.

The Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A’s distinguishing and nautically-themed traits included: the porthole inspired case structure, the rounded octagonal bezel, the horizontal embossed pattern on the dial, and the integrated steel bracelet. These attributes are still a part of the Nautilus’ iconic look today and are the reason that the Patek Philippe sports watch is so recognizable and coveted.

Important Nautilus Models Throughout its History

Throughout its four-decade history, the Nautilus range has welcomed an assortment of different metals, sizes, and complications, while still staying true to its fundamental design. Here’s a timeline of some key highlights and important Nautilus models throughout its history.

1980: Ref. 4700/51J First Ladies’ Nautilus
1996: Ref. 3800/1JA First Nautilus with Roman numerals
1996: Ref. 5060/S First Nautilus with a leather strap
1998: Ref. 3710/1A First Nautilus with a complication (winding zone indicator)
2005: Ref. 3712/1A First Nautilus with moon phase display and power-reserve indicator
2006 (30th Anniversary): Ref. 5980/1A First Nautilus with chronograph
2010: Ref. 5726A First Nautilus with an annual calendar
2015: Ref. 7118/1A First automatic Ladies’ Nautilus

The Nautilus 40th Anniversary Collection

To mark the important anniversary, Patek Philippe introduced two 40th limited edition Nautilus models in October 2016: the Ref. 5711/1P and the Ref. 5976/1G.

The platinum Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P’s watchcase spans 44mm in width (including the crown). The dark blue embossed dial houses 12 baguette diamonds as hour markers, the “40” and “1976-2016” labels at 6 o’clock, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The transparent caseback of the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P showcases the automatic 324 S C caliber within, boasting an accuracy rate of -3 to +2 seconds. With only 700 in circulation, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P retails for $113,440.

The Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G—limited to 1,300 pieces and retailing for $96,390—is a bigger and more complicated timepiece compared to its sibling. Crafted in 18K white gold, the case width measures 49.25mm, including the crown. The Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G is a flyback chronograph, with a pair of chronograph pushers flanking the crown. In addition to the date window at 3 o’clock the dark blue dial of the Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G includes a monocounter at 6 o’clock as well. This clever concentric counter encompasses three different scales in a small space: the 12-hour, the 1-30 minute, and the 31-60 minute counter. The indexes on this particular anniversary Nautilus are marked with baguette and princess-cut diamonds. The Nautilus Ref. 5976/1G also features the “1976-40-2016” anniversary mark on the dial. Driving the time, date, and chronograph functions of the Ref. 5976/1G is the self-winding CH 28-520 C caliber, which can be admired via the sapphire crystal caseback.

As we would expect from Patek Philippe, the dual commemorative models are impressive timepieces, worthy of this significant milestone in the ongoing story of the Nautilus.

Photo Credit: fratellowatches.com /thejewelleryeditor.com / perpetuelle.com / timeandwatches.com / robbreport.com / masterhorologer.com / patek.com

As 2016 comes to a close, we took time to look at the best-selling jewelry pieces of the year. Though this list contains some of the most classic jewelry designs in the world, there are new trends to look out for in 2017. Keep reading to find inspiration for your next jewelry purchase!

5. Bulgari B.zero1

Buglari is one of the most coveted Italian jewelry brands in the world. The jeweler is known for luxurious designs like those found in the Serpenti, Parentesi and Mvsa collections. The most popular collection on TrueFacet is the modern B.zero1 collection, a modern interpretation of the Bulgari Tubogas motif with the features rings, bracelets, necklaces and mroe. Shop the B.zero1 collection here.

4. Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra

Though Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra jewelry has always been a strong seller at TrueFacet, we’ve noticed a distinct upward trend at the end of 2016. We predict VCA to start selling even more throughout 2017. The iconic clover-motif collection features bracelets, rings and necklaces with a varying number of clovers on each piece. Shop the Alhambra collection here.

3. David Yurman Cable Bracelets

David Yurman jewelry features a distinct, signature look — cable. Most of his jewelry features twisted, sterling silver cable, featured in bracelets, rings, earrings, necklaces and more. The most popular piece by David Yurman is definitely the Cable bracelets. These pieces typically feature a gemstone cap at either end and pair nicely with other bracelets for the perfect stack. Shop David Yurman Cable Bracelets here.

2. Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Rings

In the United States, Tiffany & Co. was the first jewelry to adopt the British sterling silver standard. Sterling silver is an alloy made of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent other metals, which is why Tiffany Co. jewelry often stamped with 925. The American jewelry brand has always been a best seller at TrueFacet and with a vast selection of designs and styles, sterling silver rings are a favorite for jewelry shoppers. Shop sterling silver Tiffany & Co. rings here.

1. Cartier Love

As always, Cartier Love jewelry tops the list of best-sellers. In the past, Love bracelets were always the strongest seller, however now we are seeings more Love rings selling than ever before. Yellow gold is always the best-selling metal, however there’s been an uptick in rose gold and white gold. Other than the Love collection, the Cartier Juste Un Clou bracelet is also on the upward trend. Shop Cartier Love here.

As 2016 comes to a close, we took time to look at the best-selling timepieces of the year. There were several brands and models clearly favorited by watch lovers around the world. These classic pieces are timeless and will likely remain on trend for years to come. Find inspiration for your next watch purchase below!

5. Breitling Superocean

The Superocean, with it’s friendly price and large case has been a consistent 2016 favorite at TrueFacet. The modern mesh bracelets and wide variety of colorful dials make this watch perfect for any watch lover.

4. Rolex Day-Date

This Rolex model is known to signify success and status, so much so that it’s commonly called the Rolex Presidential. Though many Rolex models are some of the most classic timepieces, the Day-Date is perhaps one of the most prestigious.

3. Cartier Tank

The Cartier Tank was easily the most sought-after women’s watch. If presidents are known to wear the Day-Date, First Ladies are known to wear the Cartier Tank. This simplistic design pairs well with a metal bracelet or leather strap and compliments any style.

2. Omega Seamaster

Omega watches are a general favorite, new and vintage alike, and no model is as versatile as the Seamaster. With a wide selection, ranging from vintage pieces to newer models, and from dress to sportier models, the Seamaster has a look for anyone.

1. Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust is a timeless classic — it’s been largely unchanged since 1950. This piece is one of Rolex’s most popular models thanks to its simplicity, durability and reliability. Vintage or new, this is a watch that will withstand changing trends.

Setting a watch is not difficult but there are little idiosyncrasies for setting a mechanical watch that can be tricky. To get you more familiar with setting your watch, here is a cursory guide of how to set a mechanical watch.

However, if you have a vintage or non-quickset watch, do not follow these instructions as they may not apply to your particular watch style. We recommend you contact a TrueFacet concierge who can advise you on how to safely set your more complicated watch.

We also caution you to never set a mechanical watch between 9PM and 2AM. Although you may only see the date change over at midnight, the mechanism of the watch is actually turning over the date those four hours between 9PM and 2AM. Therefore, you risk damaging the movement if you set your watch during that window of time.

HOW TO SET YOUR WATCH

1. Remove the watch from your wrist.
Do not wear your watch while you wind and set it. If you leave your watch on, you risk winding your watch at an awkward angle and, in turn, damaging the internal components and potentially loosening the crown.

2. Re-start your watch by manually winding it.
If it’s been a long time since you’ve worn your mechanical watch, you’ll want to fully wind it before you set the time. To wind your watch, unscrew the crown and turn the crown clockwise until you feel resistance. Your watch is adequately wound once you feel this and over-winding it could cause damage.

3. Set the date.
Mechanical watches typically have three positions for the crown, each designated for a different winding functionality. The first position (as outlined in the step above) is for manually winding your watch and is where the crown is just unscrewed. Pull the crown again to the second position to quickly change the watch’s date. Turn the crown clockwise until you reach the correct date.

4. To set the time, pull the crown fully out.
To set your watch’s time, simply pull the crown out to the furthest position from the watch base. When the crown is in this last position, the second hand stops to help you accurately set the time.

5. Set your watch at AM or PM.
To determine if the time is set to AM or PM, wind the crown clockwise until you see the date starting to change. This signals that you are nearing midnight and your watch is set for PM.

6. Set the time.
Gently turn the crown clockwise (or away from you) until you set the correct time. If you overshoot your desired time, do not turn the crown counter-clockwise to go back. Turning the crown counter-clockwise will force and damage the watch’s movement. Instead you will have to continue winding clockwise until you come back around to the correct time again.

7. Push the crown back in.
Press the crown back into its “zero” position near the base of the watch. Then screw the crown down to ensure it is pressurized and water-tight.

To ensure your watch holds its value and keeps its accuracy, read more watch care tips here.

Whether you’re buying a gift for your husband or building a watch collection of your own, here are our favorite men’s watch styles for any budget.

Under $2,000
The most popular watch brands with styles under $2,000 are vintage Omega models and the Tag Heuer Formula 1. These are classic styles with durable movements and appreciated by recreational and passionate collectors. The comparatively lower price tag makes these watches great gifts for an entry-level collector or a man looking to punch up his everyday wardrobe.

$5,000 – $7,000 Range
Within this price point, watch enthusiasts favor the classic Rolex Datejust, the trendier Panerai Radiomir or the sleek Omega Seamaster. These iconic models have rich histories and rank as the prototypical watch styles when you think of any fine timepiece.

Over $10,000
When we round the $10,000 mark, avid collectors gravitate towards investment-worthy timepieces from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and A. Lange & Sohne. These watches fetch such high prices because they are oftentimes rare or limited-edition styles and their complex movements are very costly to make.

In a season of rainy days and chilly nights, there’s one accessory that every man needs: a water-resistant luxury watch. While it’s not always wise to expose an expensive timepiece to harsh elements, as long as you take proper care of the piece, some watches can be worn without worry if caught in the rain or snow. Keep reading to learn more about 4 timepieces that can withstand the elements.

1. Rolex Explorer II

The Rolex Explorer was released in 1953 as a utility watch for those who dared the most grueling outdoor adventures. It’s also said that the prototype for the Explorer accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary on his journey to become the first man to climb the summit of Mount Everest. Since the expedition, Rolex has improved and innovated, making the Explorer II a perfect choice in inclement weather.

2. Omega Speedmaster

This legendary watch also survived a legendary journey as the only NASA-certified timepiece for outer space. This timepiecem known as the “Moonwatch” accopanied Niel Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the Apollo 11 mission to land on the moon. This historic timepiece has clearly proven itself capable in even the most extreme conditions.

3. Breitling Superocean Chronograph Heritage 46

Although this timepiece was designed with the aviator in mind, the attractive finish of the watch makes the Superocean a coveted and trending timepiece. It also comes in a wide variety of color and strap combinations suitable for any style. The piece is water resistant to 200 meters and when paired with a stainless steel bracelet, you shouldn’t worry if you get a splash of water or snow on the piece.

4. Omega Seamaster

The Omega Seamaster is most famous as the timepiece of choice for James Bond. The watch was specifically chosen for the Bond movies as a reference to Bond’s time in the British Royal Navy. In the real world, Omega had developed and improved the Seamaster for use by the British Royal Navy as a reliable dive watch. These watches have up to 150 meters of water resistance so splashes of water prove no challenge.