Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

Diamond Cuts and Shapes: A Guide

When purchasing a diamond, or, indeed, any precious stone, the shape the stone is cut in is of utmost importance. The shape of a stone determines how brilliant and scintillating it is and how much fire it can throw. (Are these terms throwing you? Don’t worry, we have you covered. Check out our glossary for precious stone vocabulary here.) In short, a stone’s cut can affect how it reflects light and color, and in some cases, can even affect the price. Whether you’re shopping for a loved one or are on the market for a treat for yourself, you can use this guide on the most popular diamond cuts and shapes.

How to Spot a Fake Omega

Omega: the preferred watch brand of movers and shakers. This brand produces some of the most functional and complicated watches on the market without sacrificing style or quality. There is a reason the first watch on the moon was an Omega: these watches are some of the most durable in the industry.

When counterfeiters try to mimic classic models like the Speedmaster or the Seamaster, they try to buy into the brand’s image of endurance—even going so far as to emulate tiny details that the average consumer wouldn’t notice. To protect yourself from falling for a fake Omega watch scam, follow this guide we’ve put together to distinguishing a real Omega from a counterfeit.

1. The Dial

The dial of a genuine Omega Seamaster

Before anything else, closely examine the dial and make sure that everything is spelled correctly, evenly spaced and cleanly applied. The easiest way to determine if any watch is fake is by spotting any spelling or engraving mistakes. On an authentic Omega, the Omega logo should be a separate piece of metal that is attached to the dial. If it is painted on, you’re looking at a fake.

The Hands

Omega, like most luxury brands, outfits its watches with Swiss movements, which makes the motion of the second hand smooth and fluid and removes the ticking sound that quartz watches have. If your Omega ticks or has a second hand that stutters along inside the watch, it’s probably a fake.

You should also test out the adjustment capabilities of the crown. When you pull it up to adjust the time, the second hand on the Omega should stop as well to ensure the accuracy of the time. A fake Omega will have a second hand that continues to move even when you’re adjusting the time.

The Lumes

To add to their functionality, Omega watches are equipped with lumes, or reflective surfaces that glow in the dark. The hands, the markers, and a dot on the rotating bezel will all glow in the dark once they have been charged. An inauthentic Omega watch might still have lumes, but the quality of their glow will be abysmal compared to an original. To test their luminescence, put the watch under a bright light to charge for at least 15 seconds, then turn off the light. The glow from the watch should be bright and even and should last for a relatively long time.

In addition to that, lumes on genuine Omegas will cover more substantial areas on the hands and markers while fakes might only have thin lines.

The Date Complication

The date complication on an Omega Seamaster Cosmic

Counterfeiters generally have a hard time replicating the date windows of genuine luxury watches because each brand uses a different kind of cyclops, or date magnification lens, with different levels of magnification. When examining a watch that purports to be an Omega, check to make sure that the date is centered perfectly in the window and the numbers evenly cover the whole space.

2. The Case

The caseback of an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean with the serial number engraved onto the back of both lugs.

Every Omega is stamped with a seven- or eight-digit serial number that is unique to that specific watch. You can look up this serial number and make sure that the watch it refers to exactly matches the model you’re examining—otherwise, it’s a counterfeit. Make sure that the serial number is in the right place as well: on authentic vintage models, it will be engraved on the inside of the case back, but modern models will have it engraved on the bottom of one of the lugs.

The Functions

The helium escape valve of an Omega Seamaster, which is positioned just north of the 10 o’clock marker.

The Omega Seamaster is one of the most popularly counterfeited Omega models, and it is also one of the brand’s most detailed and functional watches. This model is built to be water-resistant up to 50 meters and, for diving purposes, includes a helium escape valve. Because forgers tend to forgo many of a watch’s extraneous functions to save on production costs, the helium escape valve on a counterfeited Omega will not work, if the watch even has one at all. Also, make sure to check that the valve is in the correct position. The bottom of the valve should just hit the 10 o’clock position on a genuine Omega Seamaster watch. You probably have a fake if the middle or the top of the valve are in line with 10 o’clock.

In the same vein, if the watch you’re eyeing has more than one crown position but no dials to correspond to them, or dials that don’t work at all, then you have a replica.

 

If you have any doubts about an Omega model and want to be absolutely certain that it’s authentic, bring it to a watchmaker or an appraiser and have them open the piece and examine the movement. They will be able to tell you with complete certainty whether that Omega is genuine or not. If you have further questions regarding TrueFacet’s authentication process, contact our concierge representative here.

What to Do When Your Fine Jewelry Breaks or Gets Damaged

Uh-oh, the stone from your engagement ring just fell out! The post from your earring broke off! The chain of your necklace is woefully tangled!

Don’t panic, here’s what to do next and how to find a trusted local jeweler who can repair and restore your fine jewelry.

Do not try to DIY a repair.
Even though a broken earring or necklace looks as if it can be fixed with a little craft glue or you think you can pop a stone back into place, never try to repair your jewelry on your own. You run a serious risk of damaging the integrity of the piece: bending the setting’s prongs, chipping the stone or exposing the metal to the harsh chemicals in household products like Krazy Glue.

And, on a related note, do not wear damaged or broken jewelry. This will greatly increase the likelihood of further (potentially irreparable) damage.

Double-check your jewelry insurance policy.
If your fine jewelry is insured, pull out your policy paperwork and read through what repairs are included in your coverage. Also, some policies will only cover you at specific jewelers. Make sure you’re clear on what documentation you need prior to and after the repairs so you’re not left on the hook for a bill that should be covered.

To learn more about jewelry insurance, read our post “Jewelry Insurance: A Beginner’s Guide.”

Find a qualified and reputable jeweler.
If you can, bring the broken item back to the jeweler who originally made or sold it to you. They know how your ring or necklace was originally constructed and would be the experts on how to repair it properly.

Barring that, look for a creditable jeweler. The American Gem Society organized a searchable directory of their members who can help with jewelry repairs and appraisals.

Visit the jeweler in person to ensure they do their repairs on-site and do not send it out to a third party vendor.

Ask for the cost of the repair upfront.
It’s important to know how much you are spending on the repairs. First off, no one wants to be floored by an unanticipated bill. Secondly, a good jeweler should thoroughly inspect the damage before giving you an estimate. If your would-be jeweler is “eyeballing” the piece and rattling off a quote, it’s a red flag that they may do a rush or hack job.

If the piece is irreparably damaged, consider having the stones reset or the piece repurposed.
Sometimes it can be very expensive or too difficult to repair your piece of jewelry. If that is the case, explore your options for having the stone reset or the item repurposed. The diamond from your ring can be made into a pendant necklace. Or the stones from a pair of earrings can be set into a ring. Or your chain necklace can be refashioned into a bracelet. This alternative approach allows you to preserve the value and sentimentality of the item and refashion it into something you can wear and enjoy.

How Much is My Cartier Love Bracelet Worth?

Cartier Love Bracelets are consistently one of TrueFacet’s best-selling items on our marketplace. And one of the most common questions we receive is, “What is my Cartier Love Bracelet worth?”

Speaking in very broad strokes, a classic Cartier Love Bracelet on TrueFacet will resell for $5,000, earning any consignor upwards of $4,250. But some variations of the Love Bracelet can resell for over $8,000!

The earning potential of your Cartier Love Bracelet is influenced by its size, metal type and overall style. We break down how these factors ultimately affect how much you can earn when reselling your Love Bracelet.

Size
Cartier Love Bracelets are carried in size 15-21 cm. The most popular sizes are 16 and 17 which, in turn, fetch a higher resale value and sell faster.

Metal Type
When the Cartier Love Bracelet debuted in 1969, it was only available in yellow gold plating. Since then, Cartier has expanded into solid yellow, white and rose gold.

The classic yellow gold still leads the pack and is by far and large the most sought after metal type for the Cartier Love Bracelet—and therefore has the highest resale value.

However, the trendier rose gold is quickly turning into a fan favorite and we’ve seen an uptick in its overall resale value. White gold meanwhile is still a popular option but is not as in demand as yellow or rose gold.

Diamonds
Cartier now offers their Love Bracelets in a myriad of diamond and gemstone combinations including fully covered pavé versions and Love Bracelets with garnet and amethyst stones in lieu of screws. Love Bracelets with precious stones retail far above the classic Love Bracelet.

Although diamonds usually yield a higher resale value being that they are more expensive to begin with, they are not as widely popular as the classic Cartier Love Bracelet. Therefore, it may take longer to sell.

Model or Style
Cartier recently (and quietly) released a new Cartier Love Bracelet, SM in February 2017 that is a thinner version of the original Love Bracelet. Unlike its predecessor, which is locked with a screwdriver kept by your partner, this updated Love Bracelet includes a self-fastening closure to symbolize self-love and independence. The Cartier Love Bracelet, SM has seen an uptick in sales and is starting to command a higher resale value as they become more and more sought after.

Cartier offers a cuff version of the Love Bracelet which, unlike the original, has an open back for easy and quick removal. These retail for less than the classic Love Bracelet and have a proportionately lower resale value.

To learn more about how to list or consign your Cartier Love Bracelet on TrueFacet, visit our website here.

How to Spot a Fake Panerai

The Panerai brand has been producing high-quality timepieces since 1860, and they have continued to innovate new designs and new technology to put their watches at the forefront of the industry. The brand remains popular amongst watch enthusiasts because of this drive to constantly and skillfully re-invent themselves. Because the name “Panerai” connotes this forward-moving effort of luxury horological technology, consumers are eager to take part in it—and counterfeiters are eager to take advantage of that. To protect you from falling victim to a fake Panerai watch scam, we have compiled these quick tips to telling an authentic Panerai from a replica.

1. The Dial

The face of a Panerai Luminor Marina with the correct subdial placement and the “sandwich” dial. Photo by Worthy Living.

The Sandwich Dial

Many counterfeiters have perfected the look of a Panerai dial—at least, at first glance. Like other aspects of finely-made Panerai watches, the devil is in the details. For example, genuine Panerai pieces are outfitted with “sandwich” dials—that is, the green luminescent background that illuminates the markers on the watch is sandwiched between layers of the material that makes up the surface of the dial. If you look closely at the numerals, you might find a layer of green striping through the material. Other variations on the sandwich dial include the “sausage” dial, in which the lume material looks puffy, and the “painted” dial, in which the lume is flat and painted on. The lume style differs between models, so make sure you are very familiar with the genuine Panerai model that you’re looking for as counterfeiters will not pay as close attention to details like this when creating forgeries.

The Subdials

Examine the subdials of the watch, while you’re at it. On an authentic Panerai watch, there isn’t a marker at the 9 o’clock position, so the left subdial will be closer to the outer edge of the dial to make up for it. Counterfeit models will often mistakenly have the left subdial positioned too far to the right because they include a marker at 9 o’clock.

The Hands

Left: a genuine Panerai Luminor GMT. Right: a replica Panerai. Photo by Watch Report.

Watch hands are often another detail that counterfeiters tend to mess up. On a genuine Panerai, the second hand should be long enough to nearly touch the outer edge of the dial. You should also make sure that the hands of the watch you’re looking at are correct for the piece’s model type. Forgers sometimes switch out the hands between models, so make sure you know what the hands look like when you’re in the market for a specific model.

2. The Case

Panerai prides itself on its incredible craftsmanship, and it is their centuries-old expertise that ensures the longevity of each Panerai piece. The cases on their watches are engineered not only to protect the mechanisms inside but also to ensure the best, most comfortable fit for the watch-wearer for years to come. The minute details that go into that engineering are often forgotten by counterfeiters in favor of saving a few bucks on production costs. These are the details you need to look out for to make sure the watch you’re eyeing is a genuine Panerai.

Engravings

The most obvious tell on a fake watch is the quality of the engravings. Panerai watches are laser-engraved with care so that every word, logo, and number is etched clearly and deeply into the metal. On a replica, the “engravings” will probably have just been stamped in with acid, leaving a sandy finish on the markings, which will become faded and illegible over time.

A genuine Panerai crown protector with fine engravings and a handle that fits the protector’s curve. Photo by M. Wilmsen.

The Crown

Panerai crowns are incredibly distinct because of how precise their design is. Firstly, the brand is famous for creating their cases so the crown protector is not a separate piece that has to be screwed on. The crown protector will noticeably be detached from the case on a counterfeit while on a genuine Panerai, the crown protector will simply be an extension of the case.

In addition to that, the crown itself will be wide and flat so you don’t have to unlock the protector to be able to wind the watch. A replica will probably have a raised crown that is harder to get to without unlocking the protector.

Speaking of which, the handle that controls the lock on a genuine Panerai will be expertly crafted so it fits perfectly along the curve of the protector. A fake might have a handle that’s either too short or too long and will stick out unevenly against the protector.

3. The Bracelet

The Lugs

The lugs on this Luminor are slightly angled downward to better fit the wearer’s wrist. Photo by A Blog to Watch.

Even the lugs that connect the bracelet to the case are constructed a certain way. Every Panerai watch is outfitted with twisted or angled lugs to make sure that the watch has a better grip on the wearer’s wrist. Counterfeiters will use straight lugs instead of angled ones because they are cheaper and easier to produce that way.

The Leather Strap

A leather strap with visible seams and the Panerai logo engraved onto the buckle. Photo by Panerai.

If the watch you’re looking at has a leather strap, pay attention to the stitching. Panerai prides itself on using hand-stitched leather straps. You should be able to see how they sewed the piece together. If the seams are hidden, the strap might have been cobbled together using a machine, or, more likely, just leather glue. The straps should also be held a millimeter away from the case by the twisted lugs to protect both the leather and the hardware from damage. A fake will most likely position the strap flush against the watch’s case, which will wear down the leather and the metal over time.

The buckle of the strap, like the case, should be made with high-quality metal stamped with a reference number and the brand name. If the reference number has a sandy-looking texture or is not present on the buckle at all, you’re looking at a fake.

 

As always, to be completely sure, we recommend that you take the watch to a jeweler who can assure you of the Panerai piece’s authenticity.

Can I Work Out with My Watch On?

Watch brands and watches in general are intimately tied to the world of sports. Omega is the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games. Dozens of watch models have been specifically designed for extreme sports like deep sea diving and race car driving. Not to mention that tennis and golf pros regularly play in their Rolex and designer watches.

However, the catch to all this is that not all luxury automatic watches should be worn during physical activities, including your morning work out. Before you don your watch to the gym, read these important watch care tips!

Screw down the crown before swimming laps.
Assuming your watch is water-resistant, your automatic watch is only water-resistant if the crown is fully pushed in and screwed down. So always double-check that the crown is properly set before you dive into the pool.

And if your watch fogs up, it’s a sign that water leaked into your watch and you should have it serviced to ensure its internal components were not damaged.

Use your diving watch’s rotating bezel to time your swim.
Never use your watch’s chronograph (or stopwatch) pushers while you’re already in the pool; pressing them compromises your watch’s water-resistance and may allow water to seep inside. Therefore, only use the rotating bezel to avoid any water damage.

Invest in a sweat-friendly band.
Swap out your watch’s leather or exotic strap for more a resilient or easier-to-clean band like a silicon, rubber or NATO strap. (Leather does not fare well when it gets wet with sweat.) Metal bracelets are a fine option but wipe down the links with a polishing cloth after your workout to avoid build-up.

Keep your watch in your locker during weight lifting and contact sports.
If you wear your watch during a strength training workout, you run the risk of brushing and scratching the crystal against the metal dumbbells, weights and exercise equipment. As for contact sports, a sudden impact to your watch can break its balance staff, which keeps the balance wheel and hairspring in place. If that happens, you’ll need to have your watch expertly repaired.

Double-check your cardio equipment’s method of resistance.
Treadmills, bicycles and elliptical trainers have different types of resistance systems—motors, tension belts, air and magnets—help you work up a sweat. But, if your gym has magnetic cardio equipment, they pose a threat to your automatic watch’s inner components. Magnetic fields can throw off your watch’s escapement (which regulates your watch’s oscillations so it keeps proper time) and damage the movement.

How to Spot a Fake Rolex

Rolexes are, by and large, the most popularly counterfeited kind of watches. The brand’s association with wealth and luxury makes its watch models vulnerable to forgery—and, unfortunately, the forged copies are not as easy to spot as they once were. Because counterfeiters have made the effort to produce watches that are very close to the real thing, it is paramount that you know exactly what to look for to ascertain that a piece you’re eyeing is the real deal. To that effect, we have put together this guide that you can use to protect yourself from purchasing a fake Rolex.

1. The Face of the Watch

The Dial

The face will be more informative as to the authenticity of your Rolex: the brand engineers its movements with an incredible attention to detail that is difficult to replicate. For example, while many Rolex models have minute hands that stop and start along inside the watch, as opposed to a sweeping motion, the real indicator of a Swiss made mechanism is its noise. Real Rolexes, whether their minute hands “sweep” or not, won’t make an audible ticking sound, while cheap copies that use low quality movements will.

While you’re examining the dial, take note of the watch’s hands. Counterfeiters will sometimes switch the hands between two models from the same brand, so make sure those hands are the correct ones for the model you’re looking at.

The date window of the watch can also identify a fake, since Rolex uses a 2.5x magnification lens called the cyclops. Many fakes only use a magnification of 1.5x. The date should perfectly take up the entire bubble; anything less or more is probably fake.

The material on the watch’s face is very telling, as well. Rolex, like many other luxury watch brands, uses sapphire crystal to protect the face of the watch from scratches. Counterfeiters will try to save money by using glass instead. To make sure your watch is sapphire crystal, spill a drop or two of water on the face. If the water pools together, the watch is probably sapphire; the crystal is incredibly smooth and should not disrupt the water’s surface tension. Glass, which is less refined, will make the drops smear.

Engravings

The writing on the dial and engravings on the crystal and on the case are often flubbed or even completely overlooked by counterfeiters. As such, every letter etched onto the dial should be clear and precise. Font irregularities, smudges and spelling errors are clear indicators of a fake. Rolexes produced after 2002 also have a tiny micro-etching of the Rolex crown logo engraved into the crystal below the 6 o’clock position. There should also be an engraving on the rehaut, which is the inner rim of the watch face between the dial and the crystal. Typically the word “Rolex” with the serial number engraved at 6 o’clock under the crystal is displayed. Check to see if it’s actually engraved and not just printed on the rehaut. Many fakes now incorporate these engravings, but they are crude and imprecise and are not as detailed as a real piece.

2. The Case

The Crown

For many of the models such as the Daytona, Submariner and Sea-Dweller there should be a trip-lock crown seal within the threads of the winding crown’s tube. The gasket is a black ring that’s visible when the winding crown is fully unscrewed. Many fakes will not feature this or will include a ring that’s not functional.

The Caseback

Rolex casebacks are usually very simple: these solid pieces are opaque and free from engravings like hallmarks and logos, with few exceptions: Rolex Cellini Prince watches have clear casebacks, though they are no longer being sold from the factory, and Rolex Sea Dwellers are engraved with some variations of “Rolex Oyster”. Otherwise, “Rolex” watches that have clear or engraved casebacks are most likely fake.

The Body

Cheap fakes weigh considerably less than genuine Rolexes, considering the base metals of fakes are much lighter than the stainless steel and gold materials that are used in the real thing. However, this is getting considerably difficult to use as a gauge since counterfeiters are getting much better at making the fakes weigh just as much as the real timepieces.

If you can, look up the serial number that comes with the watch you’re eyeing. Every genuine Rolex has a unique 5-8 digit serial number which helps determine the approximate year of production for that particular watch. Most counterfeiters will probably come up with a fake serial number that wouldn’t register, or the serial number would indicate the year of production for that watch that doesn’t match the counterfeiter’s description.

As always, a foolproof way of determining whether a Rolex is fake or not is to bring it to a jeweler who can open up the piece and tell you with absolute certainty whether the model you have is genuine or not. If you have further questions regarding TrueFacet’s authentication process, contact our concierge representative here.

 

What to Know Before Engagement Ring Shopping

If you’re in the market for an engagement ring, here is what you should do and know before you head to the jewelers.

Determine Your Budget Ahead of Time.
Set a realistic budget before you look at any rings. Engagement rings can easily be tailored to suit your budget—smaller or larger stone, more or less pave diamonds, platinum versus white gold—without compromising its overall style. Tell the jeweler your budget upfront so they show you rings within your means. It can be heart-crushing to find a dazzling ring and learn it’s five times your original budget.

Know Your Ring Size.
Whether you’re shopping as a couple or on the sly to surprise your significant other, you should know the ultimate wearer’s ring size. Stones can look bigger or smaller and bands thicker or thinner pending on your hand and finger size. It can be incredibly helpful to know the ring size ahead of time to get the proportions just right. And, if you need some pointers on how to determine your or your partner’s ring size, check out our post here.

Brush Up on Your Fine Jewelry Lingo.
We organized these handy cheat sheets that delve into the variety of diamond cuts and engagement ring settings and shed light on those puzzling “4 Cs.” Look them over to familiarize yourself with the general cut and settings options to focus your engagement ring search.

Double-Check Your Proposal Schedule.
If you want to pop the question on a particular date, be sure to cross-reference your calendar. Rings typically take a minimum of six weeks to be delivered (even longer if you’re having anything customized or engraved). Keep that lead time in mind and ask the jeweler how long it will take for you to receive the ring before placing your order.

Get Tested for Any Allergies.
Some people are allergic to nickel, the common alloying metal used in white gold jewelry. But obviously, most people don’t realize they’re allergic to white gold until they have a white gold engagement ring. Therefore, if you don’t know if you’re sensitive to nickel, you can get tested by an allergist.

That said, if you do not want to go through the hoops of getting an allergy test before you go ring shopping, you can have your jewelry plated to guard your skin after you buy it. The catch here is that you may have to make frequent trips back to the jewelers to re-plate it should you realize later on you in fact have a nickel allergy.