Jewelry for men has seen its popularity rise and fall over the years, but thankfully, today’s “man bling” offerings are classic, timeless, and subtle. With millennial men interested in form-fitting suits, Italian leather footwear, and Hermès pocket squares, we have seen an increase in bejeweled accessories as well. If you’re a guy who is looking to build your own jewelry wardrobe, here are four fine ways to start.

A Proper Timepiece
It doesn’t have to be Swiss, nor does it have to be expensive, but at the end of the day, it should look good, coincide with your wardrobe, and… well… tell the time (obviously). If you’re a guy who is just starting to get into the watch game and who maybe doesn’t have thousands to spend, there are two feasible routes you could take when seeking out your wrist candy.

The first way is to shop previously enjoyed timepieces like the ones we have here on TrueFacet.

But another way is to do your research on what the watch industry refers to as microbrands. A watch microbrand is an independent brand that is usually just starting out or has gone the route of crowd-funding in order to get the brand launched. Many microbrands are affordable, with some of their watches starting at just a couple of hundred dollars. Brands like Brew Watch Co. and others are making waves among younger generations because of their sleek, simple look and lower price point, but also because of their creative and quirky ad campaigns.

A Pinky Ring
Yes, you read that correctly, and no, you don’t have to be a member of the mafia. The pinky ring has come back with a vengeance, but in a way that’s less Don Corleone and more Elvis Presley, circa 1956. When it comes to wearing a pinky ring, stick with the “less is more” adage. Try going with darkened metals or simple bands that add a bit of personality to your look without screaming, “Look at my pinky ring!” to your friends at the local bar.

Diamond Cufflinks
You can dress up any ensemble with a fitted sport coat, a French cuff shirt, and a pair of cufflinks embellished with a few diamonds. Wearing diamonds can easily go one way or the other for a man. In other words, some guys don’t know where the line is that crosses into absurdity, so again, it’s best to keep it as simple as possible. A pair of white gold signet-style ovals with a single burnished diamond in each makes for a gorgeous compliment to a finely-pressed shirt and tailored jacket, and that extra added sparkle gets the right people to notice that you’re setting yourself apart from the crowd.

A “Man Brooch”
There is no cooler accessory on a dressed-up gent than that of a lapel pin. Thanks to many of Hollywood’s most daring and dapper leading men, the #manbrooch not only earned its own Twitter hashtag, but it hit mainstream lapels shortly thereafter. With designers like the remarkable Marco Dal Maso creating whimsical and interesting lapel pins for men who like a little story with their jewelry, the popularity of these “mancessories” is thankfully at an all-time, gem-embellished high.

Let’s say you or someone you love has a sentimental streak for the antique, but that beautiful pre-owned diamond you snagged for a song at an online auction needs some new life breathed into it. Yes, you can have a cool, fresh, and modern piece of jewelry without sacrificing that precious vintage diamond. We’ve compiled some simple but important steps that will help you start the process of setting your old diamond into a brand-new mounting.

See an Appraiser
The first thing anyone should do when they get their hands on a previously enjoyed diamond is to make sure it’s all that it says it is. Many times, antique diamonds are not accompanied by a certification so it’s hard to know exactly what the diamond’s stats are—in other words, its color, clarity, cut grade (only for round brilliants), and carat weight among other things. Even if it’s your diamond that you are thinking of remounting, have it checked by a professional to make sure that no damage has been done to the stone in the years that you’ve worn it.

Here are the things that your independently-certified gemologist appraiser needs to verify for you if the diamond is still mounted or even if the diamond is unset:

1. If it is an actual natural diamond and not lab grown or enhanced in any way.
2. If there is any damage to the diamond (i.e. chips, fractures, etc.)
3. Where the inclusions (if any) are in the stone.
4. What the approximate color grade of the diamond is
5. What the approximate weight is if it is set, and what it is if it is not set

If you take a set diamond to your appraiser, it’s good that they check these things first before you have the diamond removed from the mounting by a professional jeweler. That way, if any damage occurs during the process of the stone being removed, you have documentation of all flaws prior to the work being done.

Find or Create Your New Mounting
There are many places for a buyer to find a mounting both online and locally, so it’s best to start doing your research once you have the diamond you’ll be using. You are the only you out there, and so your jewelry should reflect your personality, your likes, and your sense of style.

One way to research setting and setting styles is to hit some popular hashtags on photo sharing social media sites like Instagram. For example, popular hashtags like #ringsofinstagram and #showmeyourrings will pull up a variety of ring ideas and styles that will have you scrolling through your feed for hours.

You can also work with a custom jeweler to create a unique ring or necklace using sketches and CAD/CAM technology. This can be an incredibly fun process since you – as the wearer and designer – get to see how the piece is made every step of the way.

Enjoy it!
Once your new piece has been made in the metal of your choice and your diamond has been set exactly how you envisioned, it’s time for you to take that baby for a spin, so shoot your pictures, post to social, and gather your friends together for a night of “oohhhs” and “ahhhs.” Enjoying your new (old) diamond for years to come will make the entire process worth it.

In the early half of this decade, jewelry companies decided to bring black gemstones into their designs. Since then, both niche and mainstream buyers have been throwing cash at jewelers for their own chance at these pieces of edgy, contemporary jewelry. Not only was it a breath of fresh air to see gemstones like black diamonds set into dark metals, but it also allowed jewelry lovers a chance to get in touch with their inner wild child.

Thankfully, black gemstones are still popular, with many designers making them a central part of their collections and some buyers looking to use them as center stones for non-traditional engagement rings. So, let’s take a look at three of the most popular black gemstones and what to look for when buying them.

Black Onyx
Found in many countries around the world, including but not limited to Yemen, Uruguay, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, and the United States, black onyx is a banded variety of the oxide mineral chalcedony. While it was a popular stone in the gents’ pinky rings of the 70s and 80s, black onyx has been making a bit of a comeback as of late, showing up with fresh, faceted faces in pieces by designers like Ippolita and David Yurman.

The thing to remember when buying black onyx is that very rarely is the gem naturally black. Onyx comes in a variety of hues and artificial treatments have been used for ages to produce both the black color in black onyx and the reds and yellows in sardonyx. Most black onyx on the market today is not naturally black, but rather artificially enhanced to create a black appearance.

Black Spinel
With designers such as Misahara and Margo Morrison using black spinel in their highly-coveted jewelry pieces, the stone has risen in popularity and gained ground against other black gemstones. Like onyx, spinel comes in a variety of colors, but black spinel is often found in bead form as an accent to other dark hued gemstones or minerals like hematite or black pearls.

Black spinel is often faceted and looks luxurious when set in white metals, but can also look chic and modern when paired with high karat yellow gold.

Black Diamonds
Yes, black diamonds are still actual diamonds, but keep in mind that natural black diamonds with even color throughout are still a pretty rare find. Most black diamonds – particularly diamond melee (small diamonds used in design or to accentuate other stones) – have been treated in one way or another to enhance their color. The treatment process turns the natural diamond a greenish color that is so dark it appears black to the naked eye. In this decade alone, jewelry designers have used black diamonds as a contrast to white in designs that played off a “dark vs. light” feel.

Relatively inexpensive in comparison to their white diamond counterparts, black diamonds still need to be verified so that you, as the buyer, are sure that you get what you paid for. When shopping pieces containing black diamonds, make sure that you ask that the diamonds be tested to verify their authenticity, or have the piece appraised by an independent appraiser for your own peace of mind.

TrueFacet wants to keep all our shoppers and readers informed of the latest trends and industry news and to introduce you to new opinions and perspectives in the world of fine jewelry and watches. In turn, we’re bringing on board a handful of fresh expert voices, starting with jewelry and watch editor Barbara Palumbo. Stay tuned for interviews with even more industry movers and shakers on The Loupe!

Barbara Palumbo is a rising star in the world of watch and fine jewelry editorial.

After working in the wholesale and retail side of the jewelry industry, then the creative and marketing side for 17 years, Barbara broke out as a jewelry journalist with her blog Adornmentality. Barbara distinguished herself from highly-technical, industry-speak blogs with her no-holds-barred humor and incredibly grounded point of view—and her refreshingly honest point of view quickly caught the attention of more and more readers.

Since then, her writing career has been a juggernaut, earning praise from the Women’s Jewelry Association, who nominated her in the category of Excellence in Editorial Media two years in a row. She was also recognized by Modern Luxury’s publication The Atlantan as one of Atlanta’s five “Women of Style.”

In 2016, Barbara launched her female-friendly watch blog What’s on Her Wrist, effectively challenging the largely male-dominated watch industry with her clear voice and sharp wit. Barbara is also an editor for the quarterly print publication The Jewelry Book, contributing editor for the popular blog Watchonista, and contributor for both InStore Magazine and InStoreMag.com.

We sat down with Barbara to chat about her personal jewelry collection and the item that is still on her wish list and glean a little life advice for aspiring jewelry journalists.

Name: Barbara Palumbo
Hometown: Philadelphia, PA
Current Residence: Atlanta, GA

Titles and Publications: Founder and editor-in-chief of web-based publications Adornmentality andWhat’s on Her Wrist, contributor at InStore Magazine and InStoreMag.com, contributing editor at Watchonista, editor at The Jewelry Book.

First Fine Jewelry Purchase: The first fine jewelry purchase I can remember making was when I was about 24 years old, not long after I started working in the industry. At the time, the “tin cup” necklace was very popular, and there was one that I saw that was white gold with black pearls. I loved the piece and it was affordable to me, which not many things were at my age, so I bought it for myself and still have it to this day, though I haven’t worn it in years.

Most Prized Purchase: When I was I was pregnant with my second child, my husband and I decided to find out the baby’s gender. Upon discovering that the baby was a girl (we already had a son), I called up a diamond dealer friend of mine and purchased for her a GIA certified one-carat marquise diamond. I still have the diamond, which is still in its original paper, and plan on having a custom mounting made for it one day so that I can present her with it when she graduates from high school.

Your Dream Piece: I have coveted the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch for as long as I can remember. People always say to me, “Just buy it!” But the reality is, I have two children, and as a family, we love to travel, so my funds often go toward vacations, which leaves me with little to spend on myself. One day, though. (I’m hoping to find a great deal on a pre-owned one at that super cool website, TrueFacet.com!)

What piece of jewelry do you wear every day? My engagement ring, which is a three-stone Asscher cut engagement ring set in platinum. I’m very good friends with the Asscher family so on top of the fact that I love my ring as much as I did the day my husband asked me to marry him, I also love knowing that the cut of the diamonds ties into friendships that I’ve had for years.

#1 Style Tip for Jewelry Lovers Looking to Cultivate Their Personal Style: Find a happy medium between designer, luxury, and contemporary jewelry, because different situations will call for different jewelry styles.

#1 Tip for Aspiring Jewelry or Watch Journalists: Don’t be a one-trick pony. I write, but I also do social media marketing, and I’m a speaker at many industry trade shows and events. And if all of the above fails me, I’m also one hell of a cook. So, my advice is always to have a backup plan.

It may seem silly to bring expensive jewelry with you on a trip. Why risk losing it? Just leave it at home, right?

But surprisingly enough, there are a handful of special occasions for which you may need to bring your fine jewelry on a vacation: for example, you’re popping the question with a diamond engagement ring during a romantic trip. It’s your grandmother’s 90th birthday and you want to wear a family heirloom to the big celebration. You’re meeting your baby niece for the first time and want to commemorate it with a birthstone pendant.

Protect your valuables and follow these steps to safely and securely travel with fine jewelry and watches.

1. Double-check your insurance policy.
Before you even consider wearing your wedding band on your beach getaway, confirm that your insurance policy is up to date and covers lost items. A standard homeowner’s or renter’s insurance policy does not cover lost items. So, if your ring falls into the sand, that loss is not likely covered and you’re out a wedding band.

If you have special jewelry insurance, review that policy as well. It is more likely to include coverage for “mysterious disappearance” (i.e., loss), but that’s not a guarantee unless you see it explicitly written in your policy.

Also, if you have traveler’s insurance, the policy likely does not cover high-ticket items like fine jewelry or a watch. Most plans have per-item limit of only a few hundred dollars meaning a $3,000 piece of jewelry or watch would not be covered for the full value.

2. Confirm that your hotel has an in-room safe or safety deposit box.
Call ahead to see if your hotel room includes a safe. If not, the front desk may have a safety deposit box for you to securely store valuables. If neither option is available, you may want to reconsider packing your most valuable pieces.

3. Document every watch or piece of jewelry you pack.
As you pack for your vacation, snap photos and jot down a list of all the pieces of jewelry or watches you’re bringing with you. (And don’t forget to note the one you wear everyday!) Keep a copy of your list at home and another in your suitcase.

Also pull all your relevant paperwork together: gemstone certifications, watch papers, appraisal valuations. Make sure any watch or piece of fine jewelry you’re packing is documented in your personal and official records so, in the unlikely event that you need to file a claim, you are prepared.

4. Pack your items securely and keep them in your carry on.
Pick up a travel-friendly watch or jewelry case so your items are protected and organized. (We rounded up our favorites here.)

Also, never put your fine jewelry or watches in a checked bag—always hand-carry the items with you. If your luggage is lost, airlines are not responsible for any high-end watches, jewelry or heirlooms that may be packed inside. Bring your jewelry and watch in your carry-on or your travel bag that zips closed.

Still have questions about jewelry insurance? Read our article on the topic before you jet-set to your next destination.

The GMT bezel came about in the 1950s with the rise in commercial air travel. To help PanAm’s transatlantic pilots and their crews keep track of the local and Greenwich Mean Time (which was then used as the international time standard), Rolex developed the break-through GMT-Master. The Rolex GMT-Master included a unique and incredibly helpful rotating bezel with 24-hour markers to read a second time zone.

But how exactly do you set and read a GMT bezel for a second time zone?

Step 1. Determine how many hours ahead or behind your second time zone is from the local time.
Although GMT is no longer used by airlines and pilots, it remains the standard time for traditional GMT watches. So, if you set your watch for local time, the GMT hand will automatically simultaneously turn to be set at GMT time. With the addition of the rotating bezel, the GMT hand effectively becomes the hour hand for any second time zone.

Begin by counting how many hours ahead or behind the second time zone is from local time. For our example, we’re flying from New York to Geneva, Switzerland which is six hours ahead of New York’s Eastern Standard Time…

Step 2. Rotate the bezel for the number of hours ahead or behind the second time zone is from local time.
As you turn the bezel, you’ll feel a little click as you shift the 24-hour markers. You want to rotate the bezel for each hour difference. Turn the bezel to the left for second time zones ahead of your local time. Turn the bezel to the right for time zones behind your local time.

So, in our example, Geneva is six hours ahead of our local New York time, so we would turn the bezel six clicks to the left. Now you can read the second time zone using the GMT hand as the second time zone’s hour hand.

Step 3. Remember that the GMT hand is a 24-hour hand so it will only go around the dial once a day.
The GMT bezel has 24-hour markers which need to be mentally converted into AM/PM. It can be tricky at first or if you’re unaccustomed to reading a 24-hour clock or military time. Fortunately, a lot of GMT bezels are two-toned to signify AM from PM hours.

Need help setting your watch to just the local time? Don’t worry, we have you covered. Read our post “How to Set Your Watch” here to get started.

Main image by Tide & Time.

Your trip is all booked, your clothes are all packed, and all your travel documents are in place. The last thing to do is make sure the precious jewelry and watches that you intend to wear on your trip actually make it there safely and soundly. Once you’ve prepared your pieces for travel—we recommend following this guide to making sure your possessions are secure— keep reading for our tips and tricks to safely packing jewelry for a trip.

Jewelry Box

For those who intend to bring several precious jewelry pieces and watches with them, a travel jewelry box would be perfect for their needs. Granted, these things can add some bulk to your baggage, but with padded compartments and separate storage for different types of jewelry, a portable jewelry box is your best bet for protecting your pieces from damage during travel. Business Insider recommends this one with 20 separate compartments for your jewelry and watches.

Jewelry Roll

Some hanging jewelry organizers can be rolled up and packed in your carry-on bag for travel, which makes it easy to bring your collection from home to various other corners of the world. This low-maintenance storage option is called a jewelry scroll and, like the other items on this list, can be found on Amazon.com or at travel stores. This particular one by Donna Walsh comes highly recommended and is available in multiple designs.

Pillbox

If all you plan to bring are small items like rings, earrings, cuff links, and simple chain necklaces, then perhaps a pillbox is your best option. The 7-day pillboxes can easily store a few pairs of earrings and cufflinks, a handful of rings, and some small necklaces. Depending on the size of your items and of your pillbox, you might even be able to plan out your jewelry looks by day!

Mint Tin

For a more DIY approach, save an old Altoids tin and line it with some cotton to make a tiny makeshift jewelry box, perfect for storing earrings, rings, and other small baubles.

Straws

Keep chain necklaces from tangling by inserting one end through a straw and securing it with the other end so the straw acts as structural support. Store the necklaces and straws in a Ziploc bag for travel.

Index Card

An easy way to keep track of earrings is to pierce them through an index card and storing them in a Ziploc bag or in a piece of cloth to keep them safe. This method makes it very easy to label the earrings and keep them organized, as well.

Washcloth and Rubber Bands

Line up necklaces and bracelets neatly across a washcloth laid flat, then tightly and carefully fold it in half, then roll it up. Secure the ends with rubber bands or hair ties.

There are few things more maddening than untangling a knot in your necklace chain. We’ve all been there: exasperated, brows furrowed, eyes nearly crossing and clumsily tearing at a knot.

Before you give up in frustration, take a breath. Now follow these easy steps to detangle a necklace chain.

Work on a flat surface.
It is a normal, knee-jerk reaction to stand while detangling a necklace, bringing the offending knot closer to your eyes to see better. However, this can do you a huge disservice; holding the chain up means it can easily slip through your fingers, pulled back into the knot thanks to gravity.

Save yourself some stress and lay your tangled necklace onto a flat surface so you can spread out the chain as you untangle the knots.

Insert a straight pin into the center of the knot and gradually pull it apart.
Start teasing apart the knot by inserting a straight pin (or an opened safety pin) into the knot’s center. Then, working bit-by-bit gradually open the knot up, pulling the chain outward so you can see how the chain is tangled and work backwards to undo the knot.

Do not try to undo the knot with one long pull of the straight pin. You run the risk of breaking a thin chain, scratching the metal against itself or even pulling the knot even tighter if you yank too hard on the necklace. Instead, muster all your patience and methodically tease open the knot, focusing on small lengths at a time.

Use baby oil to loosen stubborn knots—and immediately wash your necklace afterwards.
For particularly difficult or tight knots, dab the knot with a cotton swab dipped in baby oil to loosen the knot. Then use your straight pin to pull the chain apart.

However, as soon as your necklace is fully untangled, you need to wash it immediately. Baby oil can corrode the metal of your necklace chain so you want to remove the oil as soon as possible with a gentle wash. If you do not have jewelry cleaner handy, check out our DIY gold jewelry wash here.

If a chain is vintage or particularly delicate, bring it to a professional.
Take your tangled necklace to a jeweler if the chain is vintage or incredibly thin and delicate. It is very easy to break a well-worn chain at home, so leave it to the pros to untangle your necklace.

To keep your chains and necklaces from tangling in the future, read our tips on how to safely store and organize your jewelry here.