Author: TrueFacet

TrueFacet is an online marketplace for pre-owned fine jewelry and watches. Every item sold is verified by our in-house team of gemologists and watch experts to ensure its authenticity.

The Jewels Of Downton Abbey

This Fall, longtime fans and audiences around the world will slip on their gloves and travel back to early twentieth century Yorkshire County. The Crawley Family and their household will make their debut on the silver screen this September 26th. Accompanying the characters is their signature style.

To capture the elegance and refinery of the Crawleys, we’ve curated a collection of items that inspire one to bring out their inner Countess or Marchioness. All Downton Abbey images via Pinterest.

Cora Crawley, Countess of Grantham

The matriarch of the Crawley Family favors elegant long necklaces and earrings that dangle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Lady Mary Josephine Talbot

Lady Mary’s name has been synonymous with beauty and grace. The eldest of the Crawley daughters is also known for her edge.

 

 


The Marchioness of Hexham

Intelligent and romantic, Edith Pelham’s style influences one to draw from their feminine side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TrueFacet Education: Automatic Watches 101

image via watchreviewblog.com

Mechanical Movements

Unlike quartz watches, mechanical watches don’t use a battery to power the movement. They are either manually wind by hand daily (Manual) by turning a knob on the side of the watch (Crown) or are self-wound by a swinging weight (rotor) while being worn.

In essence, a mechanical watch is powered by a tightly wound coil (Mainspring) that slowly releases energy as it unwinds. This energy is transferred to the rest of the movement to power the hands that tell time and any other complications of the watch including the date or chronograph. Each part of the watch plays an important role in controlling the speed, tension and energy stored by the mainspring.

A series of gears (Geartrain) transfers energy from the mainspring to a toothed wheel and lever mechanism (Escapement). The escape wheel releases the energy at equal intervals to a pivoting escapement lever. The pivoting of the lever is controlled by a weighted wheel (Balance Wheel) connected to very fine coil (Hairsping) that “beats” back and forth at a steady rate anywhere between 18,000 and 36,000 times per hour.

To reduce the friction of the moving parts, synthetic rubies (Jewels) are added where parts come into contact with each other and in the center of wheels. Lubricant is also added to the entire movement to extend the life of the movement and its parts. 

Wearing Your Automatic Watch

Depending on how often you wear your watch and how active you are when you do wear it, you may need to wind the it 1-2 times per week to maintain sufficient power reserve. This is especially true with older watches. When fully wound, most mechanical watches have a power reserve of between 36 and 42 hours. This timeframe is extended when being worn on an active wrist. 

  1. Wind the watch off your wrist to minimize stress on the winding stem.
  2. Unscrew the crown by turning it towards you (if applicable). 
  3. Gently pull the crown out 1 click to the winding position. The hands shouldn’t move while you turn it clockwise about 20-40 times.
  4. Remember to securely screw the crown back down properly against the case if applicable. 
  5. Wear the watch to maintain power level.

 

image via Wolf Designs

The Truth About Watch Winders

When you keep your automatic watch in a watch winder, it will gently rotate the watch to keep the mainspring wound and running so it’s ready to go without needing to reset the date or time. Many people like the convenience and use their watch winder to display their watches when not in use, but it’s not a necessity for your watch collection.

Some experts say to avoid putting your vintage timepieces on a watch winder because  they were not built to have their mainspring fully wound at all times and it could reduce the lifetime of the movement. 

If you are interested in getting a watch winder, we like the ones by Wolf DesignsThe company has been in business since 1834 and they will even install custom watch winders for your closet, wall, or safe.

Rolex Sky-Dweller: A Complicated Dress Watch

Introduced in 2012, the Sky-Dweller was the perfect watch for the traveling businessman. Although one of Rolex’s most complicated watches, the sophisticated styling set it apart from its more sporty counterparts. At the time, it was only available in precious metals and was one of their more expensive models.

The functionality of the fluted ring command bezel improved long term water resistance by reducing the need for additional pushers to access the various complications. Instead of using an additional hand to indicate the secondary time zone or having a designated window listing the month, Rolex redesigned the dial for a more streamlined approach. The annual calendar accounted for the differing number of days in various months, meaning wearers only needed to manually adjust their watch once a year, at the end of February.

In 2017, Rolex released two Rolesor versions of the Sky-Dweller. Rolesor being the company term for mixed metal watches. A stainless steel version with white gold fluted dial and a two tone stainless steel and yellow gold version were added to the collection. The stainless steel version retailed for about half the price of the all gold models, making it more accessible and therefore highly sought after. The roman numeral markers were updated to baton markers to further simplify the dial’s appearance.

Ring Command Bezel

While the ring command bezel debuted on the Yacht-Master II, the expanded functionality and integrated styling on the Sky-Dweller set it apart. Linked directly to the winding crown, each counter-clockwise quarter turn of the bezel unlocked a different function on the watch. From the start position, rotating the bezel to the third position activated the 24 hour disc, the second position allowed the local time to be set, and the first position let you set the month and date.

This unique dial design removed the need to have additional pushers on the watch which helped the long term durability of the watch’s water resistance. The single position crown also helped reduce wear and tear to the stem and crown.

The Dial

Instead of using an additional hand to indicate the secondary time zone, Rolex used an inverted red triangle to mark the time on its 24 hour sub wheel. With this design, there was no need for a designated 24 hour hand or additional markings on the edge of the dial or bezel.

Typically, the month is displayed in a separate window that takes up valuable real estate on the dial. For this watch, Rolex utilized the correlation between the 12 hour markers and the numerical value of the (1-12) of each month. The current month is indicated in a small window next to the hour marker in a contrasting color. The annual calendar also accounts for fluctuations in the days of the month, meaning wearers only need to manually adjust the date once a year, at the end of February.

Bezel Positions For Setting Your Watch. Images via Rolex.

GMT/Reference Time:

Unscrew the crown counterclockwise and pull it out to the first notch.
Turn the bezel counter clockwise to the 3rd position (as far as it can go).
Turning the crown in either direction will set the 24-hour disc and the minute hand (the hour hand will also move but that will be adjusted in the next step).
Spin the bezel clockwise back to the start position.
Push and screw the crown back down in a clockwise direction to secure.

Local Time:

Unscrew the crown counterclockwise and pull it out to the first notch.
Turn the bezel counter clockwise to the 2nd position.
Turn the crown to set the hour (the minute and 24 hour disc shouldn’t move). You can turn the crown in either direction, but changing the hour in the clockwise direction will allow you to determine if it’s set to AM/PM after passing 12.
Spin the bezel clockwise back to the start position.
Push and screw the crown back down in a clockwise direction to secure.

Month And Date:

Unscrew the crown counterclockwise and pull it out to the first notch.
Turn the bezel counter clockwise to the 1st position.
Turning the crown in either direction will set the month (indicated by the highlighted window at the month’s corresponding numeric value above the hour markers).
Once the month has been selected, continue to rotate the crown for the correct date.
Spin the bezel clockwise back to the start position.
Push and screw the crown back down in a clockwise direction to secure.

Diamond Treatments 101

Not all diamonds are created equal. Only 1% of mined diamonds meet the standards for use in jewelry. But sometimes even gemstone quality diamonds can use a little help to enhance their beauty. In the lab, permanent and non permanent treatments can be used to improve the overall appearance of a diamond. This allows the buyer to get the “look” of a better quality diamond, but for less money.

Clarity Enhancements

Laser drill hole. Image via GIA

Laser Drilling

The appearance of an inclusion can be minimized by using a laser to drill a small tunnel into the diamond. Bleach or acid can then be applied to lighten a dark colored inclusion. While the overall appearance of the diamond of the diamond is improved, this permanent treatment is still noted as a clarity characteristic in lab reports.

Fracture Filling

Molten lead glass is infused into a surface reaching inclusion or laser drill hole to “hide” it from the naked eye. Under a microscope, a rainbow sheen can be detected to identify when this treatment is present. While the treatment may last for years, it is not permanent and must be disclosed to any jeweler prior to repair to avoid damaging the stone. Sometimes, heat from a jewelry repair or cleaning can evaporate the filling. Luckily, the diamond can be sent to a lab to have it refilled.

Color Enhancements

Changing the diamond color. Image via GIA

Irradiation

The diamond is exposed to controlled radiation to change its color. Sometimes the color is changed further by the annealing process but the treatment is usually listed as “Irradiated” only. This non permanent enhancement can be altered due to common jewelry repairs, so make sure to tell your jeweler. And don’t worry, your diamond isn’t radioactive!

High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT)

The most common color treatment produces a permanent change in color. The diamond is placed in a machine that exerts pressure and heat to simulate its growth environment. This process can transform a dull yellow/brownish colored diamond to the colorless range or to a fancy colored diamond like green, pink, or blue.

Some of these treatments are also used to enhance the color and clarity of colored gemstones. The most important thing to remember is that any stone treatment needs to be disclosed because it can affect the value and care of your jewelry for years to come.

 

Superwatches: Indestructible Heroes

Comic-Con International, a gathering for fiction enthusiasts, celebrated its 50th anniversary this past week. Let’s take a look at these Rolex models whose nick names derive from iconic comic book characters.

The Hulk

Green is a color that is no stranger to Rolex brand association. The “Hulk” made its debut in 2010 to mark the 60th anniversary of the Submariner. This model marks the first time Rolex released a dial that was neither black nor blue. With a sunburst metallic dial and cerachrom bezel insert that match in color, this all green timepiece is evocative of its superhero counterpart.

With its bank vault case and cast in 904L proprietary steel blend (as opposed to the industry-standard 316L stainless) paired with an Oyster bracelet with solid links – this indestructible time piece truly is incredible.

Neither Mark Ruffalo, Edward Norton, nor Eric Bana have been spotted sporting this well known Rolex model, it should be noted that Robert Downey J.R. (also known as Tony Stark or Iron Man to some) proudly showcases the “Hulk” in his personal watch collection.

The Batman

With a cerachrom bezel in both black and blue it’s no surprise on why this GMT-Master II is named after a certain brooding Dark Knight. This was the first model from Rolex to feature two colors on a ceramic bezel. As legendary as Bruce Wayne, the Batman is a sought after model especially after being discontinued.

Those on the waitlist may have been delighted to hear that at Baselworld 2019, Rolex debuted the new Batman 126710BLNR (Previous model’s reference 116710BLNR). The newer reference is fitted with the new generation Rolex movement. Calibre 3285 offers up to 70 hours of movement when fully wound, twenty more hours than the previous model.

The release of the new Batman marks the beginning of Rolex transforming the GMT-Master II into a more cohesive collection. As of 2019 all models will have a bi-colored ceramic bezel.

Omega Speedmaster: First Watch On The Moon

Image via watchesbysjx.com

On July 20, 1969, with only 30 seconds of fuel remaining, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin safely landed on the lunar surface. Neil Armstrong exited the craft as the first man to step foot on the moon. Minutes later, Buzz Aldrin emerged wearing his Omega Professional Speedmaster, the first watch worn on the moon.

Built for Speed

The Speedmaster was introduced in 1957 and was popular among race car drivers and pilots. They relied on the split second timing of the chronograph function to accurately calculate fuel consumption.

Ready for Space

In October 1962, the Omega Speedmaster took its first trip into space as Wally Shirra’s personal watch. At that time, NASA didn’t have an official watch for its astronauts, so they decided to find one. They needed a chronograph watch that could withstand the unique conditions of space travel and could be used as backup in the result of system failure.

Engineers procured several watches from top watch brands: Rolex, Longines, Omega. After months of intense environmental testing, only the Omega Speedmaster remained intact. The Speedmaster was certified “Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions” by NASA in 1965. Fitted with extra long nylon straps, the Speedmaster watches were ready to be issued to America’s space crew.

In June of 1965, Ed White wore his NASA issued Omega Speedmaster on America’s first spacewalk. This mission caught the attention of Omega, who rebranded the model as the Omega Professional Speedmaster.

Image via Omega

The Moonwatch

On July 20, 1969, the historic Apollo 11 mission to the moon was underway and experiencing technical errors. The Lunar module’s alarms were going off, communication with the ground in Houston was patchy, they were going to miss their intended landing site, and their fuel burn was too high. Amidst the chaos, Neil Armstrong used his trusty Speedmaster as backup. He left the watch in the module when he stepped on the moon, but Buzz Aldrin wore his watch as he walked across the moon’s surface.

Image via NASA

To commemorate the occasion, Omega made the all gold limited edition Speedmaster BA145.022. Recipients of this special watch included the President, Vice President, and NASA crew members. A select number were released to the public as coveted collector’s items.

The case-backs of all Omega Professional Speedmasters were also changed to include the engravings: “The first watch worn on the moon” and “Flight qualified by NASA for all manned space missions”.

Omega Professional Speedmasters are still the official watch of NASA to this day.

Cartier Love Bracelet: Old vs New Screw System

The Cartier Love collection has been one of their most enduring collections. Initially designed in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo, the clean lines and screw motif had a universal appeal with a unique clasp that could only be opened using a special screwdriver. If the wearer wasn’t careful, the screws could be lost while taking it on and off.

In 2011 Cartier released a new version of the locking mechanism to minimize potential screw loss. Instead of the screws removing completely when the bracelet was opened, they would remain attached to the bracelet. Subtle differences in the design can help you determine if a bracelet has the new or old style screw system.

  1. On the outside of the bracelet, the edge of the screw touches the seam of the bracelet on the new style screw system.

 

  1. On the inside of the bracelet, closure has a “U” shape to keep the screw attached.

 

We hope this information has been useful and that you learned something new. If you have any questions about choosing the right Cartier Love bracelet, please contact a concierge associate at support@truefacet.com

The Rolex Datejust, One of Rolex’s Most Popular Watches

The Rolex Datejust is one of Rolex’s most popular watches in the pre-owned market, especially when it comes to finding a great Rolex at an affordable price. On TrueFacet.com, the Datejust can be found as low as $2800.

 

But few may know the history of this great model that Rolex created. Rolex made the first Datejust in 1945, reference number 4467, which was only available in 18KT yellow gold.

Image from Hodinkee

 

It’s one of the oldest Rolex collection models that is still produced today. In the 1950’s, Rolex came out with the stainless steel and two-tone model of the Datejust with references 5030 and 5031. Also, the jubilee bracelet came out and was designed for the Datejust.

 

A substantial update came in 2009 with the release of the Datejust II, where Rolex took the size up a notch to 41MM from the original 36MM. Customers could now purchase the 36MM Datejust or the 41MM Datejust II. Rolex decided later on to pull back on the Datejust II as people wanted a large face as this watch didn’t become popular. Eventually, Rolex launched a larger case version in 2016 with the name the Datejust 41.  Today, the Datejust collection ranges in a wide variety of sizes for women and men, and comes in multiple metal types.

 

The Rolex Datejust has been seen in a variety of movies. Paul Newman was seen wearing a stainless steel 36MM Datejust in “The Color of Money” and Harrison Ford had on a Datejust 36MM in the movie “Frantic”.

Discover the Stainless Steel Datejust on TrueFacet and the variety of others available. 

The Datejust continues to be a popular Rolex and we’ll see how Rolex continues to iterate and reinvent itself.